Highlights of my week with Mom

[janetnj]

Mom was with me for the first week of my trip. All went well with our travel, despite the dreaded return to the gate at Newark airport due to a mechanical problem. Fortunately is was an easy fix and we were on our way in fairly short order.

Our wonderful landlord met us as promised, handled our bags directly from the taxi driver and showed us the apartment. It was everything I had hoped for and even more. He had kindly stocked the kitchen with juice, water, tea, coffee, wine, champagne, jam, butter and pastries.

We spent the day just exploring "our" neighborhood. A few pictures:

Beautiful display in patisserie window:



Dessert at lunch:



Mom was impressed with the herbs available at Picard:



I'm fascinated by the street art:



For dinner we bought a quiche, baguette, cheese, and had the wine and fruit provided by the landlord. As we sat down we both got choked up, realizing, how fortunate we were to spend this time together in Paris and in such a lovely apartment.



Day 1

We had breakfast in the apartment - cereal, juice, coffee, fresh fruit, yogurt, pastries, butter, jam. Yum!

I had charged my Navigo Decouverte the previous day (for the month!) and gotten a weekly version for Mom, so we were ready to explore.

We started with a guided tour of Opera Garnier. I normally don't do guided tours, but with it you get to sit in the auditorium. I know most members have already seen the building so I'll just post a few pictures.

Designed with the Versailles Hall of Mirrors in mind:



The curtain is actually flat - it's a trompe l'oeil



The tourguide said the public's reaction to the Chagall painting is mixed. I'm in the group that likes it.



Any ballerinas on this forum?



We were on the balcony after the tour and I was pointing out the petition brigade. The unsuspecting guy had just given some money when a policeman ran up, forced the girl to give back the money and chased her away. He drove off and they were back within minutes.



Afterward we walked to Place du Marche St. Honore and had lunch at Fuxia. This lasagne hit the spot and Mom (or was it me?) insisted we had wine.



Duly fortified, we went to Musee de l'Eventail (Fan Museum) on Blvd de Strasbourg. Mom loves fans and I knew she'd enjoy this small working museum. It's just 4 rooms that describe the history and makings of a fan, and then some beautiful displays. No pictures allowed.

That evening we found a local cafe and each had onion soup (cliche, yes but hit hit the spot on a rainy, jetlagged evening), along with a bottle of white wine.

To be continued...

[janetnj]

Day 2

Today we decided to explore the Marais. Started out first going to Marche Bastille. Mom wanted to explore the markets. Our only purchase was some earrings for me, but we enjoyed looking at the displays. The market is quieter on Thursdays than it is on Sundays.

We walked to Place des Vosges. Sat for awhile and rested and people watched.



We were heading toward musee Cognacq-Jay, but as usual in Paris we passed so many other interesting things along the way.

Decided to go in musee Carnavalet.

I love the Bijouterie Fouquet:





A hotel ballroom:



Some beautiful rooms:





I liked these guys:



We saw an open gate to a courtyard with a sign about the Jardin des Francs Bourgeois. Entrance was through one of the buildings. I was a little hesitant but the man at the desk waved us through. A nice small garden, another quiet little corner of Paris. Hmmm - someone should write a book about that...



We finally got to our original destination - musee Cognacq Jay. An eclectic display from a wealthy couple's private collection. I think I remember someone posting about how much she enjoyed the small porcelain objects:



I went down to the basement in search of the bathroom and found the room where they hold classes:



By this time we were quite hungry for lunch. We found a small crepe place and it hit the spot

We kept wandering and stumbled upon the National Archives. The sign said there was a garden so we went off in search of it. Glad we did:





We went by the Stravinsky fountain at the Pompidou:



Then headed to BHV. I wanted to show Mom the basement. We decided if Dad was us he would still be in there.

This sign reminded me of one of the big box stores back in the US.



I loved the directory on the floor - how convenient. Wonder what happens if you go right?



Ended up at Hotel de Ville. I was lucky enough to tour the building during Journees du Patrimoine a few years ago. They have a weekly tour - I'm planning to do that sometime during this visit.



Took the metro back to the apartment and both of us napped. Mom also called Dad and I smiled hearing the happiness in both of their voices.

Cousin came over in the evening and we dined at a local cafe - Cafe L'Inedit. Mom and I had confit du canard. Cousin had steak tartare. A nice end to a great day.

To be continued...

[Jody]

Janet , so great that you had this time with your mother. MAkles me wish iI still had mine so I could share paris with her. You done good girl!!!

[Shoesy]

I can just imagine how special it was sharing quality Paris time with your mom. Experiencing Paris' beauty and yumminess (is that a word?) together.....sigh!

Looking forward to more goodies......

[mossie]

Nice to see you enjoying our favourite city with your mum.

[geordy]

Those are the "highlights"? My God woman what else did you too get up too???

Sounds like a great trip and memories for you both!

San Fran is in...Yanks are do or die this afternoon!

[denisefrombolton]

Nice to read your report Janet. You make me nostalgic for Paris, and my mum.

Keep them coming.

Love Denise

[janetnj]

Day 3

My favorite museum - Nissim de Camondo.









Mom wanted to stroll the Champs d'Elysees. That lasted about 10 minutes and we'd both had enough.

We were in the area so went to the Petit Palais. A beautiful ceiling:







And a nice view from the garden cafe:



Found a space invader:



Passed by this bicyclist/musician on the way to diner:



The waiters at dinner carried everything up and down this staircase

[janetnj]

Day 4

We went for a walk in the 13th. Place Paul Verlaine:



Another space invader:



And interesting houses:





Then hopped a bus and got off at Hotel de Sens:



The lovely garden



And the cannonball stuck in the side of the building



We went to the community garden of clos des Blancs Manteaux. Only open weekends when the school isn't in session. A woman was tending to the garden and asked if we had questions. Apparently half the garden is managed by members of the community and the other half by the city of Paris. There are community gardens throughout the city. The Paris.fr website has a list by arrondissement.



Is that another space invader?



We went to BHV to "rest", along with what seemed like half of the female population of Paris. No line for the men's room though.

We saw a sign for Observatoire BHV and decided to follow it. It was an alcove with an exhibition. The best part was the view from the windows. A close-up of Hotel de Ville:





This was the actual exhibition



Then a short walk through the covered passages. Jardin du Palais Royal. Still blooming in early October.



Galarie Vivienne

[jo]

Love those little houses in the 13th! Still haven't made it to Nissim de Camondo, but intend to if I get to Paris by myself in January. Where did you have dinner on day 3? Love that staircase!

Great pics, once again so here's an exalt from me.
Jo

[janetnj]

Jo- it was near the Seine in the 4th, but I don't remember the name. The food was ok - but nothing really special. Atmosphere was good. We were upstairs and had a nice view.

I waitressed for many years through high school and college. I can't imagine carrying trays of glassware up and down those stairs!

I love the Nissim de Camondo. I think the commentary in the audioguide really helps you visualize life in the mansion.

[Shoesy]

Nissim de Camondo is without a doubt my favorite museum. Everything there is so impressive, and after learning the story of the family, it made my visit there even more meaningful.

[geordy]

Oct 14, 2012 15:28:32 GMT -5 janetnj said:

Jo- it was near the Seine in the 4th, but I don't remember the name. The food was ok - but nothing really special. Atmosphere was good. We were upstairs and had a nice view.

I waitressed for many years through high school and college. I can't imagine carrying trays of glassware up and down those stairs!

I love the Nissim de Camondo. I think the commentary in the audioguide really helps you visualize life in the mansion.

Janet,

Was it on the Quai? Perhaps the Brass Louis Philippe? we ate there a Sun lunch a few years back and were offered upstairs for the view but i had on heels or sandels and didn't like the looks of the spiral stairs! we sat in the enclosed terrace on the side.

had endive salad and lamb but was coveting the oysters and tarte tartin the elderly gent next to us lunched on...said we'd go back for oysters but haven't made it yet!

[Jody]

Nissem de Campndo is one of our favorites too. Lovely House and grounds but the family story is heart breaking.

[janetnj]

Geordy - it was Louis Phillippe. Great view from upstairs.

Mom and I each had cod which was fine but a bit bland. Cousin had veal which he said was quite good.

[Sandy M]

Enjoyed your reports about the adventures of you and your Mom - how wonderful for both of you to spend a week together in Paris!

[mez]

I am only now catching up - it's been a hectic few weeks.

You are so lucky to have shared the week with your Mother. I wish my Mother was more interested in travel in general. My Mum and I are poles apart in that respect. :-)

I've been to some of the places you mentioned and others not. I am eager to visit the Petit Palais as it's been on my list for ages.

Keep us updated with your travels.

[Happygoin]

Janet, like MEz, I'm just catching up on my forum reading. I'm just getting done with our busy season at work, and have today off because of hurricane Sandy. What better to do than catch up on my OPF reading?

It was me who loved the small treasures at the Cognacq-Jay. What a delight that place was! Like Shoesy, another fave is the Nissim di Camondo, not least because of it's sad history.

I chuckled at the spiral staircase those waiters have to run up and down. I'd kill myself on it *without* a tray of food!

What a wonderful memory you made with your mom. Having just lost mine, your post was a wonderful read. Thank you.

[janetnj]

Thanks everyone for your kind comments.

Finally getting around to posting the remaining days. I nearly ruined my computer by spilling a cup of coffee into it (many thanks to the Apple Store at the Carrousel du Louvre for fixing it) and an unexpected and fantastic week in the south of France, I'm now back in Paris with a computer that works.

Day 4

Started with a walk through the 13th.

Place Paul Verlaine



Lovely house



Then hopped a bus to just sort of see where it would take us. Got off at the Hotel de Sens. Pretty garden



And a pretty building



With a cannonball stuck in it



We found one of the community gardens in the Marais on rue des blancs manteaux. A woman was there and kindly asked if we had any questions. The garden is attached to a school so only open to the public on weekends. She told us on the paris.fr website you can see a list of all the community gardens by arrondissement.



Headed back to BHV. I saw signs on the 5th floor for Observatoire BHV and decided to follow them. Turns out there's a small observatory that had an exhibition. Great up close view of Hotel de Ville from the windows.





And this was the actual exhibition



Then a walk through the passages. The gardens at Palais Royal were still in bloom.



I like the floor at Galerie Vivienne





Day 5:

This was the first Sunday of the month - decided to go to musee Rodin and left somewhat early to hopefully beat the crowds. It was a beautiful day.





Walked through Montmartre Cemetery. Flowers were still in bloom.



Loved this door



Then met up with our cousin at Canal St Martin. I wonder if this boat is the one that Mossie took?



We ran into a regional food festival that was just fantastic. Booths of all sorts of things. Foie gras, tartiflette, wine, mustard, olive oil, etc. It was a really fun atmosphere - one of the highlights of our week.





The men doing this seemed to like it more when a woman was being passed through.





I think this is my favorite picture of all...



We went for drinks at a friend's home and then dinner at a small cafe near the apartment. Brandade was a special and I tried it for the first time. Yummy!

[Sandy M]

Great report Janet - especially liked the pics of the festival - you were lucky to run into that one.

So glad for you and your Mom that you could spend this time together in Paris!