jsmla
Junior Member
Posts: 84
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Post by jsmla on Nov 16, 2007 14:27:05 GMT -5
As some of you may know we are trying to visit Paris on a budget. I'm looking for places near our apartment (Rue Pavee at Rue des Rosiers) where we can dine fairly inexpensively. I've been nosing around web sites and guide books and have seen some unbelievable prices, meals for one person costing more than my entire weekly grocery budget! The weak dollar isn't helping. To make things more interesting Scott's a strictly meat and potatoes guy. He's going on this trip solely to please me so I want to try to find things he'll enjoy.
We're planning on doing a lot of picnicking and eating in so I'd love to hear of any markets where I can purchase things for picnics or to prepare in our apartment. I don't mind cooking on vacation, at least not very much. Unfortunately, we'll arrive too late on Tuesday to take advantage of the Richard Lenoir market that I've heard so much about. Is there anything similar nearby that would be open on a Wednesday?
Maybe one day we'll be able to eat in a few of the wonderful places I've read about but, for this trip, I'd love to hear any suggestions any of you could offer for a cheapo trip.
Merci,
Jennifer
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Post by Happygoin on Nov 16, 2007 15:06:03 GMT -5
I was about to recommend L'as du la Falafel until I got to the part about your husband being a meat and potatoes guy. I know it's been closed recently, but it was supposed to reopen today. Others will report...there are so many in the area! Paris doesn't need to be expensive to eat.
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jsmla
Junior Member
Posts: 84
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Post by jsmla on Nov 16, 2007 17:38:20 GMT -5
Thank you so much for the information!
The whole food thing has nothing to do with allergies. It's just the way he was raised. I loved Scott's mom but she had to have been the worst cook in the world, everything burned, over salted or dumped out of a can. Sunday lunch at their house was what I thought of as "beyond the call of duty." They have to be the only people in the world that put grape jelly on garlic toast. I, on the other hand, was raised in the Cajun part of Louisiana and will try almost anything. It doesn't hurt that I have a cast-iron stomach!
Anyway, I'd like to try a cafe or two while we're there. On past trips we've stuck to take-out or tourist places. I have to admit that I'm a little bit nervous at the thought of trying to order a meal in a restaurant, possibly in French. I'm worried that I'll say the wrong thing and Scott will end up with a plate of innards in front of him. Silly of me, but true.
Jennifer
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Post by andi on Nov 16, 2007 17:40:12 GMT -5
jsmla, don't worry about finding good cheap food to eat while around Paris, our first trip was on a very limited budget too. We took only 400 euros spending money to last us 3 days, that was for food, drinks, sightseeing and prezzies. We never dined out but simply ate from takeaway stalls or patisseries. Pizza was a huge favourite at 4 euros for a 10". I am ashamed to also admit that we did Mcdonalds once too! Theres nothing nicer than eating a feast in any of the great parks and watching the world go by with a nice wine or bottle of beer. On our first trip my hubby was not such a great foodie person but by our second trip he was very keen to sample things that were a little bit more special. Let me tell you that from our budget of 400 euros there was aprrox 130 euros left, which brought us both a nice fragrance from the duty free shop at Gare Du Nord to take home as a reminder. I can honestly say that we felt our first trip to be completely set out as we had planned it, nothing had to be missed out. Our second trip gave use the chance to splash out a bit more but even then we didn't spend up altogether.
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Post by Becky (Berkeleytravelers) on Nov 16, 2007 18:24:45 GMT -5
One thing to look for as take out food that Scott almost certainly would like is the rotisserie chickens with small whole potatoes cooked in the drippings down under the chickens. They are totally yummy, and would satisfy the most "meat and potatoes" guy around. Look in the windows of charcuteries, etc., as you walk around near your apartment, you're bound to see places that sell them (in fact, just follow your nose!). When food shopping in markets, also, you will find that chicken usually is a good buy and it's very good.
Have fun!
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Post by luckyluc on Nov 16, 2007 19:38:16 GMT -5
Bonsoir Jennifer,
Having a kitchen will make that trip very convenient and fun for you and Scott since you can set your own menu and choose the time you feel like eating. What is fabulous about Paris is the selection and the possibilities, you can dine on 15 Euros or on 1,500 ! And both experience will be great. You will find some traiteurs around the apartement but don't hesitate to walk about ten minutes in the direction of Bastille and find the rue de la Roquette. There you will have a good selection of very very affordable bistros, some chain restos and some good ethic food as well as three supermarkets.
You mention that you enjoyed cooking, do you think that Scott would mind spending an afternoon alone? That way you could take a cooking class or a shopping trip with Anne-Paris. She is a beautiful parisienne who speak perfect English and give class from her home.
PS. there is no shame in eating a Mcdo, and you can even have a beer there, but please stay away of the chain Quick, they are a poor excuse of a burger! LOL.
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Post by geordy on Nov 19, 2007 16:42:12 GMT -5
Good to know about Quick Luc...I was curious. I've never had a hamburger craving while in France but if I did I might have tried Quick just to see...and because it is French.
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Post by willow on Nov 19, 2007 17:45:35 GMT -5
I did Paris on a budget as well and kept it in expensive by cooking a little in my apartment. I also bought alot of different crepes, savory and sweet from food vendors and once at a creperie. Or buying sandwiches from bakeries was a quick lunch too.
In the 4e, I also went to Les Philosophes a few times and found the food to be really good and not very expensive.
I am pretty picky, I like my chicken and potatoes and I didn't starve or break the bank during my 2 weeks.
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irishRover
New Member
I don't care where the water goes if it doesn't get into the wine!
Posts: 28
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Post by irishRover on Nov 23, 2007 12:45:56 GMT -5
Jennifer - There are several places in and around the Marais where you can eat inexpensively, especially if you make lunch your major meal rather than dinner. Le Café de la Poste on rue Castex is a great little neighborhood joint. The food is good and the prices fair. Le Temps des Cerises on rue de la Cerisaie, is another good place where the locals hang out. They only serve meals at lunch. Au Petit Fer à Cheval on rue Vieille du Temple is the place we always headed to for lunch our first day when we stayed in the 4th because it felt so quintessentially Parisian. If you check my earlier post in the thread about restaurants in the Marais you will find several other suggestions, all fairly inexpensive places. Most — probably all — of them will have very affordable lunch specials. Some of them such as Vins des Pyrénées on rue Beautreillis are particularly carnivore-friendly! In addition to the markets Gitte mentions, there is a Wednesday market at Place du Marché St-Honoré in the 1st, métro Pyramides. One of my favourite markets is the Marché Aligre on rue and place d'Aligre in the 12th, open from Tuesday to Sunday. IIRC the market is also open in the late afternoon from Tuesday through Saturday. Métro Ledru-Rollin or Faidherbe-Chaligny. A fun place for a quick lunch or just a beer or glass of wine is Le Baron Rouge on Place d'Aligre. If you check out AnneParis' blog she has a delightful piece on the Marché Aligre and mentions a couple of other good and inexpensive eateries in the area. My recollection is that the Marché Baudoyer is quite small. Besides the traditional markets you will find just about every kind of food shop you can imagine — including a Monoprix — along rue St-Antoine heading towards place de la Bastille. There is an excellent fruit and veg place at the corner of rue de l'Hôtel St-Paul and good boucheries, charcuteries and wine shops scattered along the street. There is also no shortage of good boulangeries and patisseries in the area. I really enjoy shopping along rue St-A and relaxing in one of the cafés with the locals when the shopping is done. The only thing I have not found there is a good fromagerie. I think the closest one is a short walk away on the Île St-Louis. That's not really any hardship as it is quite close to Berthillon. When you check the prices of meat in the local boucherie you will begin to understand why dishes that include large quantities of high quality beef are so expensive in Paris restaurants. (Actually considering the retail price of many food staples I think Paris restaurant prices are remarkably reasonable but that's a topic for another discussion...) By the same token, a "steack" ordered in an inexpensive restaurant or café may not be quite what we Americans have come to expect. Also French beef does not taste the same as American beef because the animals are fed differently. I actually prefer the flavour of French beef but not everyone does. I wouldn't want your meat and potatoes guy to be unpleasantly surprised. If "meat" does not necessarily have to mean "beef", pork, lamb and the flesh of various feathered animals is often better value and can be quite excellent in less expensive places. in any case, enjoy — and bon appétit!
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Post by Anne on Nov 23, 2007 13:43:53 GMT -5
Yes Irish, your science is amazing ! I didn't know you, but now I understand why the other ones have been longing for you so much It is really great to have you here !
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irishRover
New Member
I don't care where the water goes if it doesn't get into the wine!
Posts: 28
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Post by irishRover on Nov 25, 2007 15:36:47 GMT -5
Gitte, my dear friend, and you too, anne, please, please, spare my blushes!!! I have been examined by ecclesiastical authorities and I do assure you there is absolutely no sign of stigmata anywhere on my hands, feet, brow or side. I conclude, therefore, that the Second Coming I am not... My knowledge of things Parisian is far from complete. Indeed as my late lamented father woiuld have been happy to tell you, there is not a subject in the world about which I know everything there is to know, though, as he would also have acknowledged, there are few subjects on which I am unwilling to express an opinion. Gitte, you take second place to no-one on being a source of fascinating and unusual information about Paris. Anne, though i do not yet know you well, I already know from reading your posts that your perspective from inside l'Héxagone is uniquely useful. And there are many others who have preceded me here whose posts are filled with great information and insights. As Bertolt Brecht put it: "The institution is, after all, greater than the man."
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Post by Darcy on Nov 28, 2007 0:22:49 GMT -5
Irish, I started to make notes from your post, but then decided just to copy the whole thing to a Word doc. Thank you!!
Being mindful of the budget every other day allows me to splurge every other day so your advice is greatly appreciated.
I didn't know you at the other place because I wasn't there, but I'm so glad that we are both here now! ;D
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jsmla
Junior Member
Posts: 84
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Post by jsmla on Nov 28, 2007 14:40:55 GMT -5
Thank you so, so, so much! I'm keeping everything in Word, ready to print out for our trip. I will probably never have anything much to offer here outside my undivided attention and admiration. All of you have been so incredibly helpful.
Jennifer
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Post by Laura NY (aoi33) on Nov 28, 2007 18:35:39 GMT -5
Jennifer, do print everything out and bring it with you, but try to have access to the internet while you are in Paris as well. I cannot tell you how many times I went online to look something up or get an answer to a quick question before leaving our rented apartment in the morning. The computer, much as I hated to bring it, made a huge difference to our trip.
I second the suggestion of Le Marche des Enfants Rouges which is just down the street from La Fougasse...
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jsmla
Junior Member
Posts: 84
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Post by jsmla on Nov 28, 2007 19:06:35 GMT -5
Our apartment is supposed to have a computer with internet included so I probably will have all sorts of questions once we're actually there. Now if I can just wait the six months!
Jennifer
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Post by Laura NY (aoi33) on Nov 29, 2007 19:37:22 GMT -5
Waiting is always the hardest part!!!!!
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Post by Jody on Dec 1, 2007 15:35:17 GMT -5
I'd recommend the trip to the Marche des Enfant Rouge also. We went last Sunday and had the unexpected pleasure of being there when the Mairie was sponsering their semi annual sidewalk brocante! There were stalls over several blocks along with the regular food sellers, street entertainers were play8ing and singing. We spent several hours and several Euros!!
Someone , I think Truffaut, recommended Le Pamphlet but with the strike we were going to give up on it. Then we ran across a hot wine and crepe stand they had set up outside of the restaurant and were able to make a reservation for the next evening. If you get a chance to dine there, do it! It was one of the best meals we had on this trip and the staff are delightful! It's not "cheap eats" but worth every penny.
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Post by GitteK on Dec 2, 2007 12:41:24 GMT -5
demarais - a few more details about your dinner at "Le Pamphlet" would be very welcome ! (unless you have posted it in another section ?) It is one of the eateries that are on my MUST-DO list for 2008 - together with, of course, the AA-place which is now de rigeur for all OurParis members.
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Post by Jody on Dec 2, 2007 16:40:27 GMT -5
Gitte, I'm working on a trip report ...in between laundry, restocking the kitchen and freezer...which in hurricane territory, I clean out before leaving, and our gardens are a MESS!!!!
I will say it was the best meal we had this trip. Unfortunately I left my camera behind! We did the 3 course menu, and I could not finish my starter or dessert!!
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Post by Shoesy on Dec 2, 2007 23:13:00 GMT -5
Demarais - You've now made me very curious to hear about that apparently very spectacular meal. But take all the time that you need, and attend to all the pressing matters that require your immediate attention. Naturally, we'll still be here waiting to drool over the delicious details that made this particular restaurant so memorable.
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