Post by kerouac on Jul 25, 2011 12:53:26 GMT -5
Rue des Rosiers should be one of the most fascinating and historic streets of Paris. It has existed since the 13th century and is the backbone of the original Jewish district in Paris. Even though the presence of Jews was attested back in the 14th century, actually most of the Jewish population arrived in the early 20th century, after fleeing the pogroms in Romania, Austria-Hungary and Russia. Between 1881 and 1914, 20,000 Jews settled in the neighborhood.
Unfortunately, there were the horrors of WW2, but the street actually lost its soul in the mid 1980's when more than half of the traditional Jewish commerces were replaced by fashionable clothing boutiques.
Tourists still flock there in search of the past, but mostly what they find instead are the 5 falafel vendors and their frenzied competition.
Nevertheless, the street is worth a quick visit, and that is exactly what I did. I always enter it from rue Vieille du Temple, where it is almost invisible after having been mostly pedestrianized 5 years ago.
I confess that this was at 7am on a Sabbath morning, so I knew I wasn't going to see much activity there.
Most of the shops have changed activity but kept the historic sign.
This was a bakery in the old days.
The real neighborhood institution was the Jo Goldenberg restaurant and deli. It was attacked by terrorists in 1982, killing 6 and injuring 22. Numerous terrorist organizations were suspected, but it was never possible to determine responsibility. In any case, the restaurant closed in 2006 and is now a clothing store.
Another institution for 50 years was the Hammam Saint Paul, where the old Jewish men, particularly from Hungary, recreated the ambience of the steam baths of Budapest. They would spend all afternoon playing chess naked and setting up marriages for their daughters. It is now a clothing store as well.
There are numerous commerative plaques in the street, but that is true of most Parisian streets.
Chez Marianne is my favorite restaurant on the street. It is Jewish but not strictly kosher. In fact, I think it is even open on Saturday these days.
Feeling a bit guilty about taking photos of everything closed, I returned yesterday (Sunday) to take a few photos showing the places open.
However, if anybody wants to see modern Jewish neighborhood in Paris, I recommend certain areas of the 19th arrondissement. Rue des Rosiers is just a shadow of its past and no longer gives an accurate picture of Jewish contributions to Parisian culture.
A recent movie showing how things were during WW2 is "Sarah's Key" which played in France about a year ago but which is just being released in North America next month, I think. Kristin Scott Thomas stars in it.
Unfortunately, there were the horrors of WW2, but the street actually lost its soul in the mid 1980's when more than half of the traditional Jewish commerces were replaced by fashionable clothing boutiques.
Tourists still flock there in search of the past, but mostly what they find instead are the 5 falafel vendors and their frenzied competition.
Nevertheless, the street is worth a quick visit, and that is exactly what I did. I always enter it from rue Vieille du Temple, where it is almost invisible after having been mostly pedestrianized 5 years ago.
I confess that this was at 7am on a Sabbath morning, so I knew I wasn't going to see much activity there.
Most of the shops have changed activity but kept the historic sign.
This was a bakery in the old days.
L'As du Fallafel is in all of the guidebooks, and tourists flock there as expected.
Does anybody really care what Lenny Kravitz recommends?
Does anybody really care what Lenny Kravitz recommends?
The real neighborhood institution was the Jo Goldenberg restaurant and deli. It was attacked by terrorists in 1982, killing 6 and injuring 22. Numerous terrorist organizations were suspected, but it was never possible to determine responsibility. In any case, the restaurant closed in 2006 and is now a clothing store.
Another institution for 50 years was the Hammam Saint Paul, where the old Jewish men, particularly from Hungary, recreated the ambience of the steam baths of Budapest. They would spend all afternoon playing chess naked and setting up marriages for their daughters. It is now a clothing store as well.
There are numerous commerative plaques in the street, but that is true of most Parisian streets.
Chez Marianne is my favorite restaurant on the street. It is Jewish but not strictly kosher. In fact, I think it is even open on Saturday these days.
Feeling a bit guilty about taking photos of everything closed, I returned yesterday (Sunday) to take a few photos showing the places open.
However, if anybody wants to see modern Jewish neighborhood in Paris, I recommend certain areas of the 19th arrondissement. Rue des Rosiers is just a shadow of its past and no longer gives an accurate picture of Jewish contributions to Parisian culture.
A recent movie showing how things were during WW2 is "Sarah's Key" which played in France about a year ago but which is just being released in North America next month, I think. Kristin Scott Thomas stars in it.
Here is basically what you get from these places for 5€.
Let the riot begin! LOL - 
hahahha