Post by holger on Aug 25, 2008 10:14:44 GMT -5
Ok. Will try to finish with our last week in London as part of the UK trip. Please keep in mind that we had lived in London in the summers of 1972 and 1974 and in Surrey in 1978. We and I have also been back for shorrter trips in the 80s and early 90s. But it has been about 15 years since the last trip and so we knew that we wanted to see some things that weren't there when we were last time. We also wanted to revisit places we had lived.
We were very surprised at all the changes. many more high rise buildings, many more people on the streets, road work almost everywhere replacing water pipes and doing street work. Underground stations with non-functioning escalators and lifts, many more large international stores. At the same time, same well mannered people who were courteous and patient. There was not one bus where I was not offered a seat when boarding with my cane. Used buses extensively and walked as much as possible. Prices very high even without the miserable dollar. We did comparison shop at Sainsbury and found daily items priced in pounds as they would be in dollars.
We stayed on Upper Berkeley Street at the Sumner hotel. It is a small town house hotel, well situated for mass transit. Too close to Oxford Street for my taste but we learned how to move around onto smaller streets when walking to avoid the crowds. Lots of good ethnic restaurants in the immediate area.
AND THE BEST INDIAN RESTAURANT, I have ever eaten at. La Porte des Indes looks like the typical Indian restaurant from the outside but OMG. I have eaten at Indian restaurants in London, NY, Philadelphia, DC, etc but nothing like this. The sheer charm of the unexpected and incredibly spacious interior, the fabulous service and a wide ranging menu that had unusual items. If you are going to be in London make a special trip there. Website is www.laportedesindes.com.
We also had a good dinner on a return to Rules where we had eaten in 1968. Very typically British. Also ate after the Proms at the Gore Hotel which is near the Royal Albert Hall and a hotel I had stayed at in the late 80s. Enjpyed it and it is a good place to know if going to concerts for pre or post meals. Also ate at Club Gascon where I did have foie gras that was tasty and OK scallops. Interesting place with too many attempts at unique plating and saucing to the detriment of the food. Otherwise pubs, Lebanese and Italian.
Last day we discovered St. Christopher's Place, a small street with some charming small cafes and shops and had a simple lunch there. many of our favorites were gone although we walked Kings Road looking for them.
Hotel was quite comfortable. Beds were good, ample towels, lifts to rooms but then some stairs, obliging staff, very clean and large breakfast which was good but got boring after a week. Price was moderate for London at 145 sterling which included breakfast, service but not VAT. Rooms at the front were larger and quiet at night. However, the street work began early and while it ended by 5, it made it very hard to take naps. Airconditioning which worked well, actually was too cold for husband who had insisted on it. We would stay again if on shorter trip unless we could get a deal at the Gore which is more old fashioned and my preference. But for longer stays, would stay in an apartment. With any savings, I would buy at Harrods Food Halls. They are expensive but I felt like a kid in a candy store.
We enjoyed the Proms, the Globe Theatre, restored after our last visit, the Hadrian exhibit at the British Museum and especially the War Rooms and Churchill museum near Westminster. Spent nearly three hours there and would go back. Weather was chilly and rainy most of time so we would bus to an area, walk it and take the bus back rather than walking and did not sit in parks. The areas around our apartments on in South Kensington had really not changed much in appearance. But my favorite Smith's was gone as were my butcher, green grocer and fishmonger.
We were very surprised at all the changes. many more high rise buildings, many more people on the streets, road work almost everywhere replacing water pipes and doing street work. Underground stations with non-functioning escalators and lifts, many more large international stores. At the same time, same well mannered people who were courteous and patient. There was not one bus where I was not offered a seat when boarding with my cane. Used buses extensively and walked as much as possible. Prices very high even without the miserable dollar. We did comparison shop at Sainsbury and found daily items priced in pounds as they would be in dollars.
We stayed on Upper Berkeley Street at the Sumner hotel. It is a small town house hotel, well situated for mass transit. Too close to Oxford Street for my taste but we learned how to move around onto smaller streets when walking to avoid the crowds. Lots of good ethnic restaurants in the immediate area.
AND THE BEST INDIAN RESTAURANT, I have ever eaten at. La Porte des Indes looks like the typical Indian restaurant from the outside but OMG. I have eaten at Indian restaurants in London, NY, Philadelphia, DC, etc but nothing like this. The sheer charm of the unexpected and incredibly spacious interior, the fabulous service and a wide ranging menu that had unusual items. If you are going to be in London make a special trip there. Website is www.laportedesindes.com.
We also had a good dinner on a return to Rules where we had eaten in 1968. Very typically British. Also ate after the Proms at the Gore Hotel which is near the Royal Albert Hall and a hotel I had stayed at in the late 80s. Enjpyed it and it is a good place to know if going to concerts for pre or post meals. Also ate at Club Gascon where I did have foie gras that was tasty and OK scallops. Interesting place with too many attempts at unique plating and saucing to the detriment of the food. Otherwise pubs, Lebanese and Italian.
Last day we discovered St. Christopher's Place, a small street with some charming small cafes and shops and had a simple lunch there. many of our favorites were gone although we walked Kings Road looking for them.
Hotel was quite comfortable. Beds were good, ample towels, lifts to rooms but then some stairs, obliging staff, very clean and large breakfast which was good but got boring after a week. Price was moderate for London at 145 sterling which included breakfast, service but not VAT. Rooms at the front were larger and quiet at night. However, the street work began early and while it ended by 5, it made it very hard to take naps. Airconditioning which worked well, actually was too cold for husband who had insisted on it. We would stay again if on shorter trip unless we could get a deal at the Gore which is more old fashioned and my preference. But for longer stays, would stay in an apartment. With any savings, I would buy at Harrods Food Halls. They are expensive but I felt like a kid in a candy store.
We enjoyed the Proms, the Globe Theatre, restored after our last visit, the Hadrian exhibit at the British Museum and especially the War Rooms and Churchill museum near Westminster. Spent nearly three hours there and would go back. Weather was chilly and rainy most of time so we would bus to an area, walk it and take the bus back rather than walking and did not sit in parks. The areas around our apartments on in South Kensington had really not changed much in appearance. But my favorite Smith's was gone as were my butcher, green grocer and fishmonger.