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Post by sistereurope on Jul 21, 2008 9:03:47 GMT -5
Hi all,
As I mentioned in the general board, I'm pretty sure I'll be in Toulouse for a few days in October while my husband goes to space meetings. It was so funny because I did see the NYT article on Friday called "36 Hours in Toulouse". (further kismet!). Have any of you been there? I hear it's a fun young city. I would appreciate any recommendations for restaurants and other sights. Thanks!
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Post by MaisonMetz on Jul 21, 2008 18:19:40 GMT -5
Sister -
Terrific serendipty regarding the recent NYT's article. We spent several days in Toulouse in 2001 and loved the city's vitality. (Can't believe it's been seven years!) Obviously, any restaurant recommendations would be woefully out of date. However, below are excerpts from my travel journal that concern some of the museums, public spaces and church architecture that we enjoyed. I suspect those things wouldn't change much over time.
"We liked the look of the city at once – rosy buildings and lively streets... Our first destination was the leafy shade of a café in the Place St Georges, a very congenial square with a garden, nice building facades and several appealing cafés and restaurants.
Afterward dawdling over cold drinks, we headed around the corner to the Musée des Augustins, the city’s fine arts museum. It’s a beautiful museum that was formerly an Augustinian convent with a cloister dating from 14th century. It contains a fascinating collection of works from the Middle Ages, including superb Romanesque sculpture – with over 350 pieces that are considered some of the best in the world. In addition there are many fine Gothic pieces and paintings with secular and religions themes. I particularly liked a set of Gothic gargoyles from the destroyed Eglise des Cordeliers. They sat on individual stone pedestals with their necks stretched upward, mouths open as if howling – or perhaps yawning, wearing rather sweet expressions and folded back ears. They looked a bit like medieval prairie dogs. The museum setting is also delightful, from the cloister gardens that showcase plants cultivated in medieval abbeys to the imposing Neo-Gothic addition with its arcaded staircase by Denis Darcy that was based on a Viollet-le-Duc project.
From the museum we walked to the nearby Cathedral of St Etienne, a hodgepodge of styles and interior spaces resulting from the combination of two different churches. It makes for a somewhat off-kilter and disconcerting floor plan. We were loath to leave the cool interior, but headed north to the Place Wilson with its plethora of eateries.
Later in the evening, we wandered up to the Place du Capitole. Half of Toulouse seemed to be there as well. This is definitely one of the city’s social centers...There were lots of students, young professionals, couples, families, a few other tourists, and a number of dogs. Many of the people were laden with books, briefcases, laptop computers, shopping bags, and most of all…cell phones.
The next day our first stop was the Basilique du St Sernin, the largest existing Romanesque church in the Western world. After years of construction it was finished in the early 13th century. However, Viollet-le-Duc spent 20 years restoring it in the 19th century, and this was not one of his better efforts. One hundred years afterward, the church was in danger of collapse. A massive de-restoration project has now been completed. In addition to shoring up needed structural elements, Viollet-le-Duc’s neo-Gothic add-ons were removed so that the 13th century architecture is once again intact. The exterior is very elegant. It’s a harmonious mix of white stone and salmon brick with five semi-circular radiating chapels around the apse and an octagonal belfry, the highest structure in Toulouse. The interior also has tremendous presence with its rhythmic curves and massive Romanesque columns. However, its simplicity and serenity is spoiled somewhat by a too Baroque, heavily painted and gilt choir.
From here we went back to the Place du Capitole to admire the 18th century Hôtel de Ville, called the Capitole, which was designed by Guillaume Cammas. This large Renaissance building also houses the Théâtre du Capitole and has a beautiful interior courtyard, the Cour Henri IV with a monumental gateway by Nicholas Bachelier. There are three themed galleries with painted murals on the first floor (second floor for Americans) that are well worth stopping to examine. The first, the Salle des Mariages, is rococo with light-hearted scenes by Paul Gervais; they are all similar poses reflecting a man’s changing interest in love as he ages by about twenty years from each painting to the next. At first you don’t notice, but then you do. In each portrait his eyes focus on a different spot. The second room, the Salle Henri Martin, was our favorite. It’s filled with Impressionist murals by Toulouse’s native son, Henri Martin, and the paintings have an almost but not quite pointillist quality. Some of the panels represent the seasons; others show scenes along the banks of the Garonne River. The third room, the Gallerie des Illustres is filled with sculpture and with historical and allegorical paintings of Toulouse’ history.
Later we stopped at the Southern Gothic Dominican Church of the Jacobins, which holds relics of Thomas Aquinas. The interior is unusually striking. Its 22-meter-high columns are among the highest in Gothic architecture. The famous “palm tree” in the church is one column, slightly wider than the others, supporting 22 ribs of red and dark-green stones radiating from the vault like leaves from a palm tree. It’s magnificent. The cloister and octagon tower are also lovely. The tower is not as tall as that of St Sernin, which had added two levels to make sure it remained the highest in Toulouse."
Thinking about Toulouse makes me want to return. Have a super trip.
Jo
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Post by sistereurope on Jul 22, 2008 7:19:16 GMT -5
Jo, Wow...thanks so much for the detailed info! It's easy to read about some place in a guidebook, but to me nothing beats a personal description. I can't wait to go to Toulouse (my friend who lives in Paris said it's the ONLY other city in France that he would ever consider living in I will definitely write a report. A huge exalt coming your way!
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Post by Becky (Berkeleytravelers) on Jul 22, 2008 10:01:27 GMT -5
Wow, a completely different city to explore (for you) and read about in trip reports (for us)! I will be interested to learn more about Toulouse - right now, I know only that it's one of the generally "south" major destinations on highways, lol!
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Post by sistereurope on Jul 22, 2008 10:50:11 GMT -5
I will definitely write a Toulouse report! I am excited to see a new city, and I've heard a lot of good things about Toulouse. And who knows? The French Space agency has its headquarters there...hmmm, my rocket scientist IS fluent in French...
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Post by cigalechanta on Jul 22, 2008 11:44:06 GMT -5
The latest issue of France Magazine has beautiful Aerial photos of Toulouse (called the city of Rose)
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