happily confused

[laurel]

Good morning and Happy 4th to all! Taking advantage of the day off to dive into this incredible fountain of experience (though it will take much more than one day)...and am drowning in the possibilities. I need so much help...It's hard to imagine a group better equipped to still the churning mess that's been made of my decision-making capabilities!
OK: First thing - we will have a week in Paris. Our goal is immersion (what's with the water metaphors??) in the city; not so much going to museums per se, though there are some things we want to see for sure (Salvador Dali, f'rinstance). We go very often in L.A. and when we get to New York. Just want to wander the different arrondissements and stop where we see something interesting. Want to see parks and lovely corners.

Question 1: Want to rent an apartment - first thought is Ile St. Louis, and we've already contacted the rental agency (GAS?) and had prompt and friendly responses. The apartments are swell! But from everyone's fabulous pictures and posts it seems as if every district is amazing! The Quartier by Quartier section makes Montmartre look so beautiful. And the 7th seems so elegant. We're all about romance and charm. Thoughts?

Question 2: Best time of year to travel. We'd been planning on Sept. 09 but are thinking more carefully about the weather. We don't mind the heat but are worried about too much rain. I've been on several sites that give statistics re temp and days of rain, but what do you folks think? We also like concerts (Denise, your itinerary activated my musical mojo)...classical, chansons, jazz. Is there any period between May and Sept. that offers more in that area? I have visited several sites that offer event calendars, but your advice is what I really need.

Question 3: Food. I don't think we can afford a $600 Taillevent dinner, but what about lunch either there or at Tour D'Argent? Or should we squelch what may be (here's a rare moment of self-awareness) just snobbery and egoism? And envy? I have a vivid memory of my boss in the early 70s travelling to Paris on business a couple of times a year (strictly expense account) and eating at Taillevent. Sounded not only scrumptious but was the definition of "je ne sais quoi" (spelling?) to my hungry soul.
I really don't prefer haute cuisine to beautiful, simple French food..but the ego is a powerful force. Talk me down, here, people!

Thanks in advance for your input and I hope everyone on the board that's currently in Paris or just about to go has a blast.

[sunshine817]

Hi, Laurel -- this is a great group to mentor you through a visit to Paris -- I'd love to know how many years of experience it would add up to!

Question 1 -- not ignoring that one, but I'm afraid I'm of no help at all...hubby has a friend from decades ago, and we usually stay with them in the cite (yes, I am spoiled ROTTEN) -- so we're more familiar with the 16th and 17th...which are terrifically quiet, but on the pricey side.

Question 2 -- September is an awesome time of year - the weather is gorgeous to warm, and the crowds have lightened considerably. Pack an umbrella and head off.

Question 3 -- Food -- we usually eat with our friends, but when we are on our own, it's pretty easy to find fabulous little mom-and-pop restaurants with incredible food that won't destroy your budget. I'd far rather eat at some little hole-in-the-wall with great food and the owner's standard poodle resting his head in my lap (it happened!) than someplace with 5 stars and zero personality. Just look for someplace that looks busy - and that doesn't have an English menu -- you'll be fine.

I don't think I've ever had a bad meal anywhere in Paris - even at Chez Clement, a big chain, when we were in a hurry for ... I think we were going on the night trip of the bateaux mouches, but I can't even remember anymore! There are better restaurants, but it was still tasty and affordable.

[Becky (Berkeleytravelers)]

Well, I can't claim to be able to answer all questions, but - is this your first trip to Paris (or did the trip many years ago also include Paris)? If so, I would suggest Ile St Louis as a base of operations. It's easy walking distance to just about everywhere, it has everything you need within two blocks (greengrocer, convenience store, two cheese shops, two or three boulangeries, a butcher, a couple of ice cream/gelato places, several bistros and cafes and a couple of nicer restaurants, ATM, post office, pharmacy, fun and not outrageously expensive shops and boutiques, etc.), and it has a delightful "village" feel to it, especially at night when it's just the residents and diners and people out for a stroll (espcially around the perimeter of the island, in the late evening). I do like Montmartre, and I know there are good neighborhoods for a stay, but Ile St Louis is always my top choice of place to stay.

September (especially later in the month) is just about ideal in my view, although I also like May and June. I would avoid July and August, both because of crowds of tourists and because the weather can be hideously hot (and the area right around the Seine has smog that's worse than LA when the weather is really hot with no wind). On the other hand, I spent about 10 days in Paris in June one year, and it rained every day - so who knows? (And in any case, it was PARIS, so who cares?)

I"ve never in my life spent that kind of money for a meal in Paris, so can't advise. I know there are those to whom it matters, but I'm not one of them (on the other hand, I will happily spend amounts for apartments that make others blanch, hence my stays in GAS apartments with lunch and dinner taken in small bistros - it's just a question of what matters to you, and what doesn't, not "right or wrong"). On the other hand, I did try to make a reservation for lunch at a really high end place (can't recall the name now, was recommended by a friend who had been there in September with family for a big celebration lunch) in December when we were there for just a day on our way home - and they never responded , which sort of saved me from myself, LOL ).

You're going to have a great time! One recommendation about music - I really enjoy the concerts at Ste Chapelle, on a sunny day when I can gaze up at the windows while listening to a good chamber music group. Highly recommended!

[laurel]

Dear Sunshine,
Having friends in Paris must be wonderful (yes, I'm green with envy)..the recommendation of Sept as a good choice is greatly appreciated and will give me extra time to save my dollars, for what they'll be worth then. Ever hopeful for the rise of the dollar.
Thanks so much for your advice.

[laurel]

Becky - you confirmed my initial attraction to Ile St. Louis and in some earlier post you had mentioned the Rose apartment - that's where we're thinking of staying. The photos are so wonderful, and that little balcony with the view of the river OMG! We had also originally thought of late September so am thrilled you think it's a good time of year.

I'm kind of beside myself with excitement!!

[Becky (Berkeleytravelers)]

If you're looking at late September, I would suggest booking your apartment (whatever you decide on) immediately. It's a very busy time of year, and it can be difficult to find places to stay if you happen to hit on a fashion week, e.g.

[annettecinca]

Laurel, not to confuse you any further, but if you're all about romance and charm, check out Chez Vous apartments. They're all in the 1-7 arr., but are SO cute ;D
www.chezvous.com/main.html

I also think September would be a perfect time of year to go. You shouldn't have to worry too much about rain then, maybe just an occasional shower, but the weather will probably be beautiful.

[laurel]

Thanks, Annette - these apartments are adorable and cover a lot of area. Not making it any easier!

[Becky (Berkeleytravelers)]

I don't know whether it's still the case, but I stopped using Chez Vous several years ago because they routinely "forgot" to return deposits for several months, after every trip (and I used to use them a lot - probably at least ten times, up to about 6 years ago when I discovery Guest Apartment Service). They just wouldn't return a deposit until they were "reminded" at least two or three times (in writing). Also, they seem to have a lot fewer properties than previously - although they still have the one in the first, which some friends (whose opinions I trust) stayed in once and said it just knocks your socks off.