Amiens. (
www.amiens.fr - look for dropdown menu with découvrir Amiens, click on tourisme and then the British flag for the English language version; another good site is
www.visitamiens.com ) Michelin *** site. Amiens has been designated a “Ville d’art et d’histoire,” a town of art and history. Its Notre-Dame Cathedral, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, is the largest Gothic building in France with the tallest nave at 140 feet. There are summer sound and light shows about its construction and history and its role throughout the ages. The Musée de Picardie is noted for religious statuary and 19th c marble and bronze statues as well as archeology. Combine a visit to both with a stroll through the pedestrian quarter of St Leu with its flower and restaurant-lined canals. You can arrange for guided tours at the Tourist Bureau, 6 bis, rue Dusevel, Ph: 03 22 71 60 50. SNCF from Gare du Nord (1hr 20 min)
Auvers-sur-Oise (
www.auvers-sur-oise.com ) Michelin * site. Van Gogh spent his last years in this small village on the Oise River northwest of Paris. The Tourist Office is the Manoir des Colombières, rue de la Sansonne. Ph: 30 36 10 06. Fax: 34 48 08 47. Ask for a bilingual guide Promenades Impressionistes & Painting is a World in Itself. You can visit Van Gogh’s gravesite and his home, Auberge Ravoux at 52, rue du Général de Gaulle, daily except Monday from 10:00 am – 6:00 pm except for mid November to mid March, Ph: 01 30 36 60 60. There is a 90-minute multimedia presentation with audio guide called a “Journey Back to the Days of the Impressionists” at the Château d’Auvers (also called the Château de Léry), 2 rue de Léry, daily except Monday, Ph: 01 34 48 48 45. (
chateau-auvers.fr ). There’s also a restaurant at the château. Museums of interest include the Musée de l’Absinthe and Daubigny’s studio. SNCF from Gare du Nord, direction Valmondois; change at Gare Valmondois for Pointoise, getting off at the Auvers-sur-Oise station. Or, SNCF from Gare St-Lazare direction Pontoise; change at Pointoise, direction Valmondois or Persan-Beaumont, getting off at Auvers-sur-Oise. Notes: (1) The "Forfait Loisir Francilien" ticket at rail stations includes round-trip tickets, admission and audio guide to the Château Auvers-sur-Oise. (2) You can also take the RER from La Défense to Cergy Saint-Christophe; get off at Cergy Préfecture, and then take the 95 07 bus towards Butry, and get off at Auver-sur-Oise Mairie. (3) Check the Paris Ile-de-France website for information on direct trains during April – end October.
Barbizon. (
www.barbizon.fr ) Michelin ** site. Landscape painters of the Barbizon school followed the lead of Théodore Rousseau and Jean-François Millet working directly from nature in this village and the surrounding area. The Museum of the Barbizon School is in the Auberge du Père Ganne, and other exhibitions can be found in the Maison-Atelier of Théodore Rousseau, an annex of the school. Jean-François Millet’s studio is also open by appointment. Note that the museums and studios are closed Tuesdays. Tourist Bureau, 47 Grande Rue, Ph: 01 60 66 41 87. RER D to Gare de Melun from Gare du Nord or Chatelet; trains every 30 minutes take about 50 minutes. There are fewer trains on the weekend. From the station take a taxi to Barbizon. Or take the train from Gare de Lyon in Paris to Avon-Fontainebleau and taxi from here.
Beauvais. (
www.beauvaistourisme.fr/index.php?language=en ;
www.beauvais.fr/eng ) Michelin ** site. Tourist Office. 1 rue Beauregard, Ph: 03 44 45 08 18 in centre ville near the cathedral. Hours: 9:30-12:30 & 1:30-6:00; Sun 10-5. The Cathédrale Saint-Pierre, a Michelin *** site (
www.cathedrale-beauvais.fr ) on rue Saint-Pierre is open 9-12:15 & 2-5:30. Ph: 03 44 48 11 60. The cathedral and its district represent the historic center of the town, and their history is recounted in an audio guided tour. In the adult tour, a fictitious stonemason called William describes the various stages in the construction of the cathedral and brings to life the powerful count-bishops of Beauvais. The Astronomical Clock made by Auguste Vérité is a marvel of 19th-century clock making techniques. It has 90,000 parts that work in perfect synchronization. A 25-minute "sound and light" show explains how the clock works using individual audio guides. May – end Oct: 10.40 a.m - 11.40 a.m - 2.40 p.m - 3.40 p.m - 4.40 p.m; 5:40 p.m weekends; off-season at 11:40, 2:40 and 3:40. The Galerie nationale de la Tapisserie is housed in a low-roofed building beyond the cathedral’s east end at 22 rue Saint-Pierre, Ph: 03 44 15 39 10, Hours: 10 – 12:30 & 2 – 5 daily except Monday. From Gare du Nord, Paris to Beauvais is about 1h15 by SNCF.
Boulogne-Billancourt. Musée des Années 30 - Espace Landowski. (
www.annees30.com ) (
orientaliste.free.fr/musees/annees30 ) (both in French.) Michelin * site. 28, ave André-Morizet, 92100 Boulogne-Billancourt. Métro: Marcel-Sembat (L9). Bus 126, 175. Walking: follow signs to the Hôtel de Ville. Hours: Tues - Sun 11am-6pm. Ph: 01 55 18 46 42. Includes a museum of modern architecture, a colonial-art gallery - an offshoot of the 1931 'Colonial' exhibition, and a museum featuring a renewal of art with religious themes, as well as the city's industrial museum, featuring the car factory, the aircraft factory, and the cinema studios, and locally made 'modern' furniture & ceramics. Admission fee. Also, les Jardins Albert-Khan. Michelin * site. The gardens are at 14, rue du Port; Ph: 01 46 04 52 80. There are four - one a pine forest evoking his native Vosges, a formal garden to symbolize France, British-style grounds, and a Japanese garden. Mé: Boulogne Pont de St Cloud (Rhin & Danube) (L10). Also Bus # 72. Open Tues - Sun from 11am - 6pm.
Bourges. (
www.bourges.fr/anglais/index.htm ) Michelin *** site. Bourges, the capital of Berry, has Gallo Roman origins, the Gothic Cathedral of St-Etienne - a UNESCO World Heritage monument, the 15th century Palace of Jacques Coeur (Charles VII’s fascinating finance minister), and charming half-timbered houses in its picturesque medieval center. There are also museums of interest and a marshland of canals for a delightful nature walk. Each spring it hosts a two-week international festival of popular music, Le Printemps de Bourges. Tourist Office, 21 rue Victor Hugo; Ph: 02 48 23 02 60; Fax: 02 48 23 02 69. Note: To make this trip from Paris in less than two hours, one must take a direct train from Gare d’Austerlitz and not change trains at Verizon.
The Royal Abbey of Chaalis. (
www.chaalis.fr/nouvelle7.htm ) Michelin * site. On the edge of the forest of Ermenonville, this 13th century abbey is now a romantic ruin beside its restored chapel, built by Pierre de Montreuil, architect of Sainte-Chapelle in Paris. The château houses Nélie Jacquemart-André’s magnificent collection of art, decorative objects, and furniture as well as the memorabilia of Jean-Jacques Rousseau. Fontaine-Chaalis 60305 Chaalis. Reservations: Ph: 03 44 54 04 02; Fax: 03 44 54 07 90. Open Mon – Fri, Mar - mid Nov 11, 11:00am - 6:00pm ; mid Nov – Mar, open Sundays and holidays from 10:00am - 12:30pm and 1:30 pm – 5:30 pm. By car: 40 km from Paris via A1, exit at Survilliers-Saint-Witz, direction Ermenonville, then to Mer de Sable.
Château de Champs-sur-Marne. (
champs-sur-marne.monuments-nationaux.fr ) Michelin ** site. The 18th-century château leased to Louis XV’s mistress, Madame de Pompadour, is a beautiful example of a small-scale royal residence with period décor and exquisite gardens. The Chinese salon with painted panels by Christopher Huet is an especially airy, elegant room. The upstairs oval music salon provides a wonderful view of the gardens. 31 rue de Paris, Champs-sur-Marne. Ph: 01 60 05 24 43. Open every day from February to end October except Tuesdays and some national holidays from 9:45am - 12:00pm and 1:30 to 5:00pm. Admission fee. Take RER line A4 direction Chessy, station: Noisiel Le Luzard, or bus 220 direction Bry-sur-Marne. Also train access from Gare de Lyon to Noisy-Champs.
Château de Chantilly - Musée Condé (
www.chateaudechantilly.com ) Michelin *** site. This beautiful Renaissance château with its surrounding Le Nôtre designed park is considered one of the major sights in France. The Grand Château houses the country’s largest private museum and includes the "Très Riches Heures" by the Duke de Berry (only a copy is available for viewing) and works by Raphaël, Poussin, Ingres, and Delacroix. The great apartments and the private apartments of the Duke and Duchess of Aumale in the Petit Château are well worth touring. The Musée Vivant du Cheval, a magnificent horse museum and stables (
www.museevivantducheval.fr ), is five minutes from the château. The Château is at 17, rue du Connétable, 60635 Chantilly (Oise). Ph: 03 44 62 62 62. Wed - Mon 10:00 am – 6:00 pm from mid March to Nov 1; otherwise 10:30 am - 5:00 pm. Admissision fee. SNCF rail access from Gare du Nord (30 min) or RER D from Châtelet-les-Halles (45 min): Station Chantilly-Gouvieux. Take a taxi from the train station to the château or take the Keolis bus for Senlis and get off at the “Chantilly, Eglise Notre Dame” stop and walk to the château.
Chartres Cathedral (
www.chartres.com ;
www.chartres-tourisme.com ) Michelin *** site. Chartres’ Gothic cathedral has been designated a UNESCO World Heritage site. It contains the most complete collection of medieval 12th and 13th century stained glass windows anywhere, noted for the “Chartres blue” color. Except for Sundays and days when the church is being used, twice daily April – November tours (noon and 2:45 pm) by resident historian Malcolm Miller are not to be missed. You can call, fax, or email to verify schedules: Ph: 02 37 28 15 58; Fax: 02 37 28 33 03; Email: millerchartres@aol.com . The tour fee is paid to him directly. Meet at the gift shop inside the cathedral to the left of the main entrance. If not totally hidden by chairs, note the labyrinth on the floor of the nave. The climb to the North tower (there is a charge and times vary) provides great views of the sculptures and cathedral structure. If you have time, wander through the old town and then check out La Maison Picassiette in the suburb of La Grappe. Chartres’ Tourist Office is on the place de la Cathédrale, 02 37 21 50 00. SNCF rail access from Gare Montparnasse (50-min trip).
Île de Châtou (also called Île des Impressionistes) is an island in the Seine between Châtou and Rueil-Malmaison 4.5 miles west of Paris. Here Renoir painted his famous “Le Déjeuner des Canotiers” (Luncheon of the Boating Party) on the balcony of La Maison Fournaise. Today, La Maison Fournaise is both a museum and a restaurant. Museum ph: 01 34 80 63 22 and fax: 01 30 53 39 03. (
www.fournaise-museum.com ) Museum hours are Wed – Fri 10:00 - 12:00 and 14:00 - 18:00, Sat and Sun 11:00 - 18:00. The restaurant is open daily for lunch and dinner. Restaurant phone and fax numbers are: 01 30 71 41 91 and 01 39 52 84 82. (
www.restaurant-fournaise.fr/Page_welcome.htm ) From Paris you can take the RER (A-1) to Rueil-Malmaison (about 10 min from Chas de Gaulle-Etoile). From the station in Rueil-Malmaison walk to the Châtou bridge and take the exit ramp at the middle of the bridge to the island on your right. There’s a sketch of the access on the museum website noted above. Note: A visit here can easily be combined with a trip to the Château de Malmaison. See below.
Compiègne, Château and forest. (
www.musee-chateau-compiegne.fr ) (in French) Michelin *** site. Joan of Arc was captured here in 1430. The Château was a royal residence with major renovations undertaken by Louis XIV and Louis XV. It was later a particular favorite of Napoleon III and Empress Eugénie. The historic apartments in the château are well worth the visit; trompe l’oeil overdoor paintings by Sauvage and an elegant circular boudoir are of particular interest. There are also museums within other wings, specifically the Musée du Second Empire and the Musée de la Voiture with its collection of antique carriages. The armistices of Nov 11, 1918 and Jun 22, 1940 were signed in a forest clearing about 6 km from Compiègne; the Clairière de l’Armistice with its replica railcar marks the historic location. (At the other end of the forest lies the Château de Pierrefonds, a 19th century Viollet-le-Duc recreation of a 14th century medieval castle and a Michelin ** site. See
pierrefonds.monuments-nationaux.fr/en ) The Château de Compiègne is at 5 Place du Général de Gaulle, 60200 Compiègne. Ph: 03 44 38 47 00. Open daily except Tuesday from 10 AM – 6 PM. Admission fee. SNCF from Gare du Nord.
Château d’Ecouen. Musée National de la Renaissance. (
www.musee-renaissance.fr ) (in French). Michelin ** site. A Renaissance museum in a 16th century Renaissance château with architecture virtually unchanged since it was built. It houses a rich decorative arts collection. The most famous item is a 75 meter 16th century series of ten tapestries depicting the story of David and Bathsheba. Ph: 01 34 38 38 50. Open 9:30 am -12:45 pm & 2:00 pm – 5:15 pm (5:45 in summer), closed Tues. Take RER line D, direction Orry la ville to Sarcelles, then bus #269, direction Hôtel de Ville d’Attenville, stop Château d’Ecouen; or take SNCF from Gare du Nord, direction Persan-Beaumont / Luzarches par Monsoult - stop at gare Écouen- Ézanville, then take bus #269, direction Garges-Sarcelles, stop Château d’Ecouen.
Château de Fontainebleau. (
www.uk.fontainebleau-tourisme.com ) (
www.musee-chateau-fontainebleau.fr ) (2nd one in French.) Michelin *** site. Former hunting lodge and royal residence with lovely grounds and a sprawling layout. A kaleidoscope of rooms from the times of François I, Henry II, Henry IV, Louis XIV, Louis XV, Louis XVI, Napoleon Bonaparte, and Napoleon III reflect the different styles in vogue during the times of these French monarchs. The François I Galerie, the ballroom, and the chapel are particularly striking. Treasure hunt game packs are available for children. Closed Tuesdays. Hours: 9:30 to 5:00; in summer to 6:00. Ph: 01 60 71 50 70. SNCF from Gare de Lyon (about 45 minutes) to Fontainebleau-Avon station. Then take bus Connnex line AB marked “Château.” (You can also walk the two miles through the park or go by rented bicycle.) Note that the SNCF offers a combined ticket for roundtrip train and bus transportation that includes the entrance fee to Fontainebleau.
Giverny and Monet’s Gardens. (
www.giverny.org ). Michelin * site. The website contains everything you wanted to know and more. Monet’s house, gardens, and Water Lily Studio are open April 1 through October 31, daily except Mondays from 9:30am – 6:00 pm. Spring and autumn are the best times to visit because of the color and variety of the flowers and because waves of tourists crowd the summer months. Fridays are recommended as the least hectic day; avoid Sundays and holidays if you can. Monet’s house also contains his excellent collection of Japanese prints. Impressionist works of American artists influenced by Monet are at the nearby American Art Museum at 99 rue Claude Monet. (
www.maag.org ). Ph: 02 32 51 94 65. Monet Museum: 02 32 51 28 21. Vernon Tourist Office: 36 rue Carnot, 02 32 51 39 60. SNCF from St-Lazare to Vernon (about an hour); taxi, bus, or walk three miles to Giverny. Schedules are on the website.
How's your doggy?
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