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Post by holger on Oct 12, 2007 11:14:24 GMT -5
 Off to Provence! This is the longest drive of the trip so we decided to pay the 20 euros per for breakfast in the hotel in order to get on the road and avoid frequent stops. Breakfast included the ususl along with yogurt and scrambled eggs, etc. it was ample but not sure worth price. Got out of Sarlat with mapquest but hit loads of traffic and then the usual small roads on way to highway. Took an hour to go 14 miles-- miles is way mapquest gave us data. Once on superhighway, pace picked up but loads of trucks. Whatever time we gained we lost at other end, again on small roads. FINALLY, got to St. Remy and Hotel Gounod around 6:30 P.M. Quirky, unusual hotel that we loved because it was so unique. Great staff and after we upgraded our room to have mre space for way too much luggage we settled in. have posted review of hotel on TA but we would stay there again. Quick showers and off for dinner at Jardin de Frederic. Bit of a walk which was nice after sitting in car so long. But wind started to really blow so much that no one could really sit out. Restaurant is terrific , old place with crowded tables but great and imaginative food. Bottle of local white wine, I started with a souffle of Brandade which was wonderful and not typical of Brandade most places. Then grilled salmon and finally orange crepes. Husband had same main and dessert but started with fresh sardines. Walked back to hotel and collapsed around midnight. Earlier stops in Loire and Dordogne were focused on very specific sites. This stop we mistakenly planned three trips to nearby cities and we ended seeing less and kind of collapsing in cafes. Really minimally saw parts of St. Remy and thus missed an major art show, for example. Now we will just have to go back- How sad!!!!! ;D Woke early next morning and had great included breakfast served in attached tea room. Interesting decor and good food accompanied by delightful opera music. Could not access internet. Winds which staff called Mistral winds had knocked out internet which stayed out for most of stay. Got on road to Arles which was short drive, found parking and walked around parts of old town. Stopped for a drink by Roman Amphitheatre and then took a short trolley tour with an excellent guide. Even in September Arle was crowded but it has an interesting atmosphere. We had originally thought of staying there but could not book in as Festival of Bulls was starting day after our arrival. Returned to St. Remy for tea and ice cream at hotel. later went to dinner at Alain Assauds. Good Provencial cooking with loads of garlic and olive oil. Small resaturant with about 8 tables and they were turning people away w/o reservations. Charming couple run it--he cooks, she waits on customers. Husband had Pistou soup, then aoli marue with cod and other sea food including mussels and se snails. Clafouti for dessert. I had same soup but main of long-cooked lamb with potatoes and garlic. Plain but good and a rest for my clogged arteries. Chocolate mousse cake and also an amuse of some special fried dough and a plate of assorted sweets. We shared a bottle of Cassis Blanc de Blanc. After breakfast next morning, walked around in St. Remy as wind was beginning to subside. Around noon we drove to Avignon which was so overcrowded that we could not find parking tried both outdoor and indoor lots with no success. Drove across river and took some pictures of Pont de Avignon and Pope's palace.. One more attempt to park and we gave up and returned to St. Remy. For consolation, went to a patisserie for snack. Husband had two boules of ice cream with chantilly and coffee. I had a sacristan--crisp pastry and meringue wrapped arpund almond paste and coffee with whipped cream. Husband went back for a relaxing swim at hotel pool and I walked around and did some gift shopping. Back to write some postcards and relaxed. Dinner at Bistro des Alpilles. Interesting food-- I started with minced lamb in pastry with a sour cream sauce and then had large gambas tails fried tempura style and served with avocado. He had same main but a smoked salmon starter. Local white wine but no dessert. Next morning after breakfast we headed off to Aix. Found parking and walked to Fountain, one of many we would see and enjoy. Had a nice lunch on square and people watched. Walked around and the found a trolley tour which was able to give us a sense of some of Aix's highlights. This is someplace we would really want to come back to for several days to explore.. After return to St. Remy to rest had a nice dinner at the Yellow House a one star Michelin. Overpriced for interesting small portions. Started with foie gras with figs and then a rather boring lamb dish. Good chocolate dessert. Local red for main part of meal and a Muscat for dessert wine. there was also a cheese course of goat cheeses all included, except wines. Husband had pistou plate, suckling pick slices and a lemon and strawberry dessert. Walked back to hotel to pack and get off for a return to Lyon to see some places we missed last year and to eat Quenelles, one of my favorite foods.
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Post by annettecinca on Oct 12, 2007 12:58:31 GMT -5
Hooray! Another episode of Holger's adventures for us to enjoy Glad to hear you liked Aix--I want to go back there, too! |
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Post by Becky (Berkeleytravelers) on Oct 12, 2007 13:17:20 GMT -5
Thanks so much for the informative post! I'm not sure if that was your full time in St Remy - did you get out to the Roman ruins over near the asylum where Van Gogh was toward the end of his life? (Can't recall the name . . . .)
I didn't have much chance to walk around St Remy (maybe 45 minutes) when I was there (it was a stop on a bicycle trip) but my impression was that in the town itself there wasn't much to see and I certainly didn't find interesting shops, etc. Actually, about all I really remember was that was where I discovered lemon ice cream (not sorbet) and loved it (but then, it was hot weather).
I've never been to Arles or Aix or Avignon - thanks for the tips on those places, as I would like to get there at some point.
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Post by holger on Oct 12, 2007 13:45:23 GMT -5
 Not sure what being a Professor has to do with any of this. Gitte gets to Paris more than I do!!!! In the early and mid-years of being an academic, you have to use those supposedly great vacations to do research, publish and/or teach in the summer to make enough money to augment pay. It is only in the later years that you can afford to do fewer of those things and get to enjoy a long vacation. By then age and infirmity start to limit activities--except for eating and**********. No , we did not get to the Roman ruins near the asylum. Having seen Roman and Greek ruins in Italy, Greece and Turkey, they are not a top priority for me any more. Agree shopping was not great but got some souvenir type stuff made in Provence, Soleido Table cloth and napkins at their shop and found a jewelry shop that was closing out a line of jewelry I have been looking at for years in various places and could not afford. Got 50% off so did buy some earrings for me and then found a line of watches by Morgan which is my oldest grandchild's name so bought her a watch with name on buckle and dial. Have been much more of a non-buyer this trip because of the horrible dollar exchange rate. Enjoy looking though and getting gifts for others. Our splurges were on restaurants and hotels.
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Post by cybee on Oct 12, 2007 14:29:30 GMT -5
Ha! Yes, Holger, perhaps we should be saying, I WANT TO BE WORKING WITH INSURANCE IN DENMARK TOO !!! Look at that life style !! >>> banging head into desk<<< Then maybe we would be going to Paris as oft as Gitte!  |
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Post by geordy on Oct 12, 2007 14:48:29 GMT -5
Had you been to Avignon before Holger? We did Avignon and Aix before Paris back in 2001. Very relaxing time, 3 nites in an all suites hotel in Avignon and then 2 in Aix. Got to Paris and 9/11 happened..very grateful for the Provence time!
Had planned on Arles and Nimes for the next year but then the job thing happened and trips got shorter! One of these days....
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Post by Shoesy on Oct 12, 2007 15:11:19 GMT -5
Your dining experiences all seem to be rather unique. Why is it that eating gives us so much pleasure? ;D And speaking of food, at first I thought that here was a post that didn't include froie gras, but in the end, I saw that I had been wrong. Holger - You seem to have more energy that a lot of us. What's your secret? Now I would love a description of those earrings you bought. |
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Post by holger on Oct 12, 2007 21:55:17 GMT -5
Geordy, wish we had spent the time in Aix and Avignon, you did. Both too big to just see in a day. Shoesy, what energy? Was good for several days as far as Foie Gras. Earrings are by Michaela Wille of Frey Wille an Austrian company. I have been looking at their designs for about five years and just did not want to spend money. But how can one resist a major sale? They are small button shaped blue enamel with an Eygptian design. Sort of a lotus pattern with other colors so they go with lots of clothes. Very comfortable.
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Post by Shoesy on Oct 12, 2007 22:54:20 GMT -5
Holger - Thanks for your fine description. I'd never heard of that designer before, but after just doing a Google search, I have a pretty good idea of what your earrings look like. Michaela Frey's designs seem beautiful and rather unique. Wear your earrings in good health. |
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Post by Anne on Oct 13, 2007 0:44:13 GMT -5
Holger, you seemed to enjoy marzipan very much in one of your previous posts, so have you tried "calissons d'Aix" ? It is a specialty from Aix, made with grounded almonds and candied cantaloup . It tastes and feels a but like marzipan, but much more delicate . People who like marzipan cannot but love this  . www.aixenprovencetourism.com/uk/aix-calissons.htmI can find some (industrial ones) in the sweets section in my supermarket, and you can certainly find some in Monoprix too . But I bet that better, artisanal ones, are to be found in Aix . |
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Post by GitteK on Oct 13, 2007 1:12:16 GMT -5
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Post by holger on Oct 13, 2007 7:22:35 GMT -5
;D
Gitte,
As I said I had been looking at the stuff for several years and could not spend the money. Too much for this Professsor till I found the sale at 50% off. Earrings are more like the oval ones on the page but they are round. the sale had apparently been on for a while so there wasn't much left but tese were fine--I do not have pierced ears so felt lucky to find anything. They did not have the Klimt but some items in Egyptian, Roman or Impressionist designs. When we got to Paris after Provence and Lyon, I saw the earrings at full price so I was really pleased with my earrings.
You my dear, have excellent taste!
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Post by cybee on Oct 13, 2007 7:29:12 GMT -5
Ooh, man! The FreyWille collection has really gorgeous earrings/jewelry! Why did I have to look!? Now something else I need to pine over! Also, comfort to me is key! Well, Holger, I bet you felt so rewarded when you saw the earrings you purchased for 50 percent off at full price elsewhere! That is such a great feeling! (and a rare one!...usually it is the other way around! ha!).
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Post by geordy on Oct 13, 2007 8:58:03 GMT -5
You are so right Anne! I sampled calissons in Aix and loved them! I had them right out of the case in the little shop, already boxed, and shrink wrapped(the latter two to bring back as gifts, obviously they all didn't make ti to the USA!). All good but can't beat the made on premises ones! That is one of the lovely pleasures of travelling about the country...all the local specialties from the main courses, to the cheeses, breads, pastries, candies, wines, liquers,....it goes on and on!! I have to admit I wasn't familar with Bergamotes until I went to Nancy!!  (the tin Amelie finds at the beginning of the movie hidden in the bathroom wall is like the one I bought in Nancy!!  ) I was ....can't find the word..it was like a kismet moment!) |
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Post by Becky (Berkeleytravelers) on Oct 13, 2007 9:11:29 GMT -5
Wow, those are really beautiful pieces of jewelry! Holger, my congratulations on finding them on sale, and taking the plunge! You're going to love wearing them, and they will always zap you right back to Provence and the day you found them there!
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Post by Jody on Oct 13, 2007 9:15:12 GMT -5
Yes! I love those earrings. Just looked at the website and saw many that I'd love to have.
Holger , you and I must be the last holdouts for pierced ears!
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Post by geordy on Oct 13, 2007 9:25:17 GMT -5
Nope Demarais..add me to the unpierced ears club!!
But I also don't wear earrings..I've only ever owned a couple of pairs, and been given those! Wear rings, pins, bracelets, and necklaces, ...with those, makeup, curly blond hair, figured I was "fancy" enough!! Plus for many years the hair was longer and you couldn't see them anyway!
Back to Provence..I bought an olive oil table carafe/dispenser that I use regularly to drizzle on pizza, tomatos, etc. Got one for my sisters too.
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Post by Shoesy on Oct 13, 2007 10:58:21 GMT -5
Holger - I too applaud you for finding that great sale. You must have been ecstatic since you had had your eye on that jewelry for a long time. Incidentally, you certainly deserve to own those gorgeous earrings even at full price, but I'm still very happy for you for saving all that money. Hey........with a 50% discount, you could have bought 2 pairs !!!
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Post by holger on Oct 13, 2007 15:34:15 GMT -5
;D
Yup! I really felt it was fate as I went in to get the Morgan gift for granddaughter Morgan and then saw the case with the FreyWille jewelry and the big 50% off sign. Should have bought more but the only other non-prced earrings weren't comfortable and I knew I would want to do some shopping in Paris--another tale for later.
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Post by geordy on Oct 13, 2007 17:21:33 GMT -5
And I'm sure Morgan will really appreciate her gift! When is she/did she get it? And..you don't have another trip planned? ? I thought you professors had that all in hand! ;D |
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(the tin Amelie finds at the beginning of the movie hidden in the bathroom wall is like the one I bought in Nancy!! 
hahahha