Provence--Sights and Food.

[holger]

Off to Provence! This is the longest drive of the trip so we decided to pay the 20 euros per for breakfast in the hotel in order to get on the road and avoid frequent stops. Breakfast included the ususl along with yogurt and scrambled eggs, etc. it was ample but not sure worth price. Got out of Sarlat with mapquest but hit loads of traffic and then the usual small roads on way to highway. Took an hour to go 14 miles-- miles is way mapquest gave us data. Once on superhighway, pace picked up but loads of trucks. Whatever time we gained we lost at other end, again on small roads. FINALLY, got to St. Remy and Hotel Gounod around 6:30 P.M.

Quirky, unusual hotel that we loved because it was so unique. Great staff and after we upgraded our room to have mre space for way too much luggage we settled in. have posted review of hotel on TA but we would stay there again. Quick showers and off for dinner at Jardin de Freeric. Bit of a walk which was nice after sitting in car so long. But wind started to really blow so much that no one could really sit out. Restaurant is terrific , old place with crowded tables but great and imaginative food. Bottle of local white wine, I started with a souffle of Brandade which was wonderful and not typical of Brandade most places. Then grilled salmon and finally orange crepes. Husband had same main and dessert but started with fresh sardines.

Walked back to hotel and collapsed around midnight.

Earlier stops in Loire and Dordogne were focused on very specific sites. This stop we mistakenly planned three trips to nearby cities and we ended seeing less and kind of collapsing in cafes. Really minimally saw parts of St. Remy and thus missed an major art show, for example. Now we will just have to go back- How sad!!!!! ;D

Woke early next morning and had great included breakfast served in attached tea room. Interesting decor and good food accompanied by delightful opera music. Could not access internet. Winds which staff called Mistral winds had knocked out internet which stayed out for most of stay.

Got on road to Arles which was short drive, found parking and walked around parts of old town. Stopped for a drink by Roman Amphitheatre and then took a short trolley tour with an excellent guide. Even in September Arle was crowded but it has an interesting atmosphere. We had originally thought of staying there but could not book in as Festival of Bulls was starting day after our arrival.

Returned to St. Remy for tea and ice cream at hotel. later went to dinner at Alain Assauds. Good Provencial cooking with loads of garlic and olive oil. Small resaturant with about 8 tables and they were turning people away w/o reservations. Charming couple run it--he cooks, she waits on customers. Husband had Pistou soup, then aoli marue with cod and other sea food including mussels and se snails. Clafouti for dessert. I had same soup but main of long-cooked lamb with potatoes and garlic. Plain but good and a rest for my clogged arteries. Chocolate mousse cake and also an amuse of some special fried dough and a plate of assorted sweets. We shared a bottle of Cassis Blanc de Blanc.

After breakfast next morning, walked around in St. Remy as wind was beginning to subside. Around noon we drove to Avignon which was so overcrowded that we could not find parking tried both outdoor and indoor lots with no success. Drove across river and took some pictures of Pont de Avignon and Pope's palace.. One more attempt to park and we gave up and returned to St. Remy. For consolation, went to a patisserie for snack. Husband had two boules of ice cream with chantilly and coffee. I had a sacristan--crisp pastry and meringue wrapped arpund almond paste and coffee with whipped cream. Husband went back for a relaxing swim at hotel pool and I walked around and did some gift shopping. Back to write some postcards and relaxed.

Dinner at Bistro des Alpilles. Interesting food-- I started with minced lamb in pastry with a sour cream sauce and then had large gambas tails fried tempura style and served with avocado. He had same main but a smoked salmon starter. Local white wine but no dessert.

Next morning after breakfast we headed off to Aix. Found parking and walked to Fountain, one of many we would see and enjoy. Had a nice lunch on square and people watched. Walked around and the found a trolley tour which was able to give us a sense of some of Aix's highlights. This is someplace we would really want to come back to for several days to explore..

After return to St. Remy to rest had a nice dinner at the Yellow House a one star Michelin. Overpriced for interesting small portions. Started with foie gras with figs and then a rather boring lamb dish. Good chocolate dessert. Local red for main part of meal and a Muscat for dessert wine. there was also a cheese course of goat cheeses all included, except wines. Husband had pistou plate, suckling pick slices and a lemon and strawberry dessert.

Walked back to hotel to pack and get off for a return to Lyon to see some places we missed last year and to eat Quenelles, one of my favorite foods.