Post by holger on Oct 8, 2007 8:05:03 GMT -5
;D
Checking e-mail before getting started found a posting on Slow Talk from one of the people there with whom I had been corresponding about Font de Gaume. She was reassuring me that I should be able to manage to get around the cave as she had met an anthropologist from Philadelphia with a cane who was able to do so. SMALL WORLD!! This was one of the three people we had met and who had assisted us when we were in Font de Gaume. We have exchanged e-mails and may meet again in Paris.
Into car around 11 for what Mapquest indicates is an hour drive to Peche Merle Grotto. Actually took two which seems to be what we are finding with mapquest--they do not factor in the small roads. But trip itself is beautiful with small, narrow, twisty roads in the mountains, through small charming villages and with great vistas. Since we were pressed for time could not stop this time--but will be back to the Dordogne!
Arrived at Peche Merle around 1:10 so were able to grab some chips and soda before picking up tickets. Our tour was at 2:15. Unlike Font de Gaume, they take you in in groups of 25 which are really too large for people in the rear to see well. 12-15 should be the maximum. We did have an excellent guide and the tour was in English but if you had questions or moved slowly to see things, you risked being caught up in the next group as they came in about 15 minutes apart. One of the reasons for this is the vastness of some of the cave chambers.
Peche Merle is a complex of caverns and tunnels and lots of stairs both up and down. The caverns themselves are incredible and it is easy to imagine how people in the Upper Paleolithic saw them as touching the supernatural world. There are fabulous depictions of animals, abstract markings, handprints, footprints, human figures and the "wounded man." There is an incredible sense of humanities connections across time but also a recognition that we can only guess at the meanings of the symbols and art. Of the three caves we visited, Peche Merle was the most engrossing and I would have really liked more time there just to sit and think. Some of the caverns are almost like being in a cathedral. Same feelings of awe. Afterwards, saw short film, took tour of museum and then drove back to sarlat to start packing for tomorrow's very long drive to Provence.
Dinner at Le Presidial (sp?) a wonderful Restaurant in a 17th Century building with a courtyard way up on the upper edge of the old town. It was too chilly to sit outside so we were in one of the dining rooms which overlooked the courtyard. Great food, excellent service and very comfortable chairs. With long dinners, I am finding that the chairs do matter!
I started with glass of champagne and husband had his aperitif. Red wine from area for meal. First course was medallions of Foie Gras with peaches and a sweet and sour sauce, then Rack of Lamb with a garlic gravy with potatoes, tomatoes and a pastry basket with white beans. Marvelous sause and combination of tastes. Cheese course was a goat cheese and then I had a chocolate mousse cake. Husband same menu but his dessert was ginger bread cake, nouget ice cream and fruit. tab for both of us was 112 euros for a fabulous meal. Well worth it. Good thing we had not had lunch.
Back to hotel for more packing and collapse.
Checking e-mail before getting started found a posting on Slow Talk from one of the people there with whom I had been corresponding about Font de Gaume. She was reassuring me that I should be able to manage to get around the cave as she had met an anthropologist from Philadelphia with a cane who was able to do so. SMALL WORLD!! This was one of the three people we had met and who had assisted us when we were in Font de Gaume. We have exchanged e-mails and may meet again in Paris.
Into car around 11 for what Mapquest indicates is an hour drive to Peche Merle Grotto. Actually took two which seems to be what we are finding with mapquest--they do not factor in the small roads. But trip itself is beautiful with small, narrow, twisty roads in the mountains, through small charming villages and with great vistas. Since we were pressed for time could not stop this time--but will be back to the Dordogne!
Arrived at Peche Merle around 1:10 so were able to grab some chips and soda before picking up tickets. Our tour was at 2:15. Unlike Font de Gaume, they take you in in groups of 25 which are really too large for people in the rear to see well. 12-15 should be the maximum. We did have an excellent guide and the tour was in English but if you had questions or moved slowly to see things, you risked being caught up in the next group as they came in about 15 minutes apart. One of the reasons for this is the vastness of some of the cave chambers.
Peche Merle is a complex of caverns and tunnels and lots of stairs both up and down. The caverns themselves are incredible and it is easy to imagine how people in the Upper Paleolithic saw them as touching the supernatural world. There are fabulous depictions of animals, abstract markings, handprints, footprints, human figures and the "wounded man." There is an incredible sense of humanities connections across time but also a recognition that we can only guess at the meanings of the symbols and art. Of the three caves we visited, Peche Merle was the most engrossing and I would have really liked more time there just to sit and think. Some of the caverns are almost like being in a cathedral. Same feelings of awe. Afterwards, saw short film, took tour of museum and then drove back to sarlat to start packing for tomorrow's very long drive to Provence.
Dinner at Le Presidial (sp?) a wonderful Restaurant in a 17th Century building with a courtyard way up on the upper edge of the old town. It was too chilly to sit outside so we were in one of the dining rooms which overlooked the courtyard. Great food, excellent service and very comfortable chairs. With long dinners, I am finding that the chairs do matter!
I started with glass of champagne and husband had his aperitif. Red wine from area for meal. First course was medallions of Foie Gras with peaches and a sweet and sour sauce, then Rack of Lamb with a garlic gravy with potatoes, tomatoes and a pastry basket with white beans. Marvelous sause and combination of tastes. Cheese course was a goat cheese and then I had a chocolate mousse cake. Husband same menu but his dessert was ginger bread cake, nouget ice cream and fruit. tab for both of us was 112 euros for a fabulous meal. Well worth it. Good thing we had not had lunch.
Back to hotel for more packing and collapse.