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Post by annettecinca on May 30, 2007 19:26:24 GMT -5
Holger, I am finally getting back to you about Aix. We were only there for a day, so didn't get into anything in depth (not even the good shopping!), but we fell for the charm of this little city. Mostly strolled along the Cours Mirabeau, a wide tree-lined boulevard with fountains everywhere, and what used to be big old homes, but are now occupied mostly by businesses.  There was a crafts market along several blocks of the street that day (Saturday)--lots of tablecloths made from Provençial fabrics, local-made soaps (one stall had at least 40 different scents), jewelry, etc.  Adjacent to this street lies the old village with narrow streets going off in every direction, and squares here and there among the shops and cafes.    We enjoyed lunch at a sidewalk cafe, and the people-watching rivaled that of Paris! The old cathedral was lovely, and is in various states of restoration. There is still much evidence of the war, and just old age I suppose.  I understand just north of Aix are important ruins, the Entremont oppidum, which was inhabited about 150 BC by a tribe called the "severed head cult". Ugh! Since you are interested in the caves with early occupants, this might be up your alley. Sorry about these huge pictures! I tried to resize them, but only a few worked. I need to work on my skills  |
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Post by holger on May 30, 2007 22:44:52 GMT -5
;)Annettecinca, Thanks for the terrific pictures. We will certainly try to get to Aix. It reminds me a bit of Dijon which I really enjoyed. Diz, We have four nights so we don't have a lot of time. Will go over your descriptions and see what can be planned that won't totally exhaust us. Obviously we can't see all of Provence in such a limited tome so we need to pick and choose. Getting into the Luberon does appeal.   |
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Post by Shoesy on May 30, 2007 22:55:53 GMT -5
Annette - I love your "huge pictures". No need to apologize. |
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Post by annettecinca on May 31, 2007 0:04:27 GMT -5
Thanks Shoesy!
Holger, my husband said Aix reminded him a bit of Dijon, too, but I haven't been there...yet! You have so many fabulous-sounding places on your list that wherever you choose will certainly end up feeling like the perfect choices for you. I can't wait till we're able to take the time to drive around the country like you're planning. <sigh> Someday! In the mean time, I'll be waiting for your trip report.
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Post by cybee on May 31, 2007 8:33:57 GMT -5
Aix looks lovely! I enjoyed your pictures of it and it makes me want to visit it! Oh, there are so many places I want to see...apparently Dijon too (from the good remarks I hear of it!). Don't get too worried about resizing your pics, as I enjoyed them as they were! (of course, I have previously tried to resize pics myself for this post with no success..but I think the posters here enjoying seeing pics of all sizes! ) |
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Post by Becky (Berkeleytravelers) on Jun 1, 2007 11:28:42 GMT -5
Holger, you will love the Dordogne (I'm there now, wasting an hour before getting ready for dinner). While in the Sarlat area, I would highly recommend a trip to Domme (maybe 20 minutes away). It's a bastide town with fabulous views up and down the valley. In Domme is a small hotel called L'Esplanade that has a very good restaurant (I definitely recommend it for dinner -- we were there last year for my birthday, and loved it just as much as we had before). While in that general area, I also recommend seeing several of the chateaus (they literally are all over and most are open to the public). In particular, I recommend Beynac and Castelnaud.
In Provence, you probably already know about the Roman ruins just outside of St Remy (if not, be sure to ask at your hotel for directions). I don't have restaurant recommendations because it's been a few years and I was with a group (doing a bicycle tour) so not sure where we ate or whether it still would be there!
This sounds like a really marvelous trip, and I know you'll have a great time.
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Post by holger on Jun 1, 2007 14:29:50 GMT -5
 Hi Becky, We will check out the restaurant at the gotel L'Esplanade in Domme as we do plan to go there. Where were you eating tonight? In Provence in a town called Pernes les Fontaines, we have read about a restaurant called Dame L' Oie. has anyone actually eaten there. The town is in the Vauclause but has 40 plus fountains and seems like a place to see. It is on the River Nesque (sp?).
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Post by Becky (Berkeleytravelers) on Jun 3, 2007 4:55:51 GMT -5
Bonjour Holger -- we had dinner at the place where we stayed for a couple of nights (Chateau le Mas de Montet). It's a truly lovely hotel on the far west edge of the Dordogne, and has a very good restaurant. You probably won't have time to check it out on this trip (sounds like you will be mostly in the "heartland" around Sarlat, etc.), but when you go back (which you surely will want to do, once you've been there) and get over toward Perigueux, Riberac, Bergerac, etc., it's within easy reach of there. I will post a short trip report later (I'm at CDG killing time before our flight) but we saw a number of places over that direction that we had not gotten to in the past and really liked (Hautefort, Brantome, and others).
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Post by catmot on Jun 12, 2007 7:40:51 GMT -5
We're going in September - 3 days in Paris, 3 in Loire and poss. having to add a night back in Paris by the airport to catch a noon flight. (Too risky to drive directly from Loire to CDG for a noon flight I think!) Where are you renting your rental car from? Are you picking it up right when you fly in or are you waiting?
Thanks!
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Post by Becky (Berkeleytravelers) on Jun 12, 2007 9:46:21 GMT -5
Hi, Catmot and welcome to the forum. You're right, don't try to drive to CDG from the Loire the morning of your flight. Even if everything goes totally smoothly (and what are the chances?), you will be a nervous wreck -- not worth it!
Please tell us about your trip when you return, as all of us love to hear about where everyone went and what they saw!
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Post by holger on Jun 12, 2007 16:59:39 GMT -5
Catmot, We are picking up our car in Paris on the day after our arrival and driving from there to Amboise for several days and then on to Dordogne, Provence and Lyon and back to Paris where we will drop the car and stay for over a week. But you could look for ways to simply take a train to your Loire location or nearby and then get the car. I don't drive so left these arrangements up to my husband.
We arrive in Paris on August 27th and drive to Amboise on the 28th. Leave from there for Sarlat on the 1st of September.
Hope you have a great trip.
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Post by paris54 on Jun 13, 2007 8:39:13 GMT -5
If you are into gardens, you should visit Villandry in the Loire Valley. It was my favorite place in the Loire. The Chateaux are lovely, but it is nice to see something different.
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Post by Shoesy on Jun 13, 2007 8:52:26 GMT -5
Yes, the gardens at Villandry are spectacular.
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metromole
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Post by metromole on Jun 26, 2007 9:26:16 GMT -5
holgar
<<Would also like to see Les Eyzies nearby and the Prehistory Museum>>
We had lunch in Les Eyzies last Tuesday (19Jun) at a simple but wonderful little place on the cliff-side overlooking the valley that turned out to be a very memorable meal. It's a simple family-run restaurant with absolutely no frills.
"Restaurant de Laugerie Basse" 24620 Les Eyzies de Tayac, Dordogne - Périgord Noir 05 53 06 97 91
The "workman's lunch" was 11€ for 5 courses including wine, which was treated like water, when the bottle was empty, they brought more. It was a simple but delicious meal and the setting was amazing, under a rock outcrop on a shear cliff overlooking the Dordogne. Reservations are accepted and advised to sit on the terrace if the weather allows. There were 6 of us for lunch (our hosts called ahead) and the meal was just wonderful.
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Post by luvparee on Jun 26, 2007 11:07:34 GMT -5
Holger - I have been in Provence twice now and would go back in a heartbeat!! Loved the Luberon area.
We had 8 nights there and stayed at a B&B/guesthouse in Pernes les Fontaines which was very central to the areas we wanted to visit. These are the towns/villages that we visited:
Bonnieux, Menerbes, Lumeries, and Coustellet (La Maison Guin) for dinner.
Roussillon, Gordes, Abbaye de Senanque (for the lavender -- unfortunately, will be gone probably August/September), through Joucas, Venasque, and St. Didier back to Pernes and dinner at Dame L'Oie.
Sunday we were at the fabulous market in L'Isle sur la Sorgue!!!
Shopped at a wonderful Provencal fabric/tabletop, etc., store in St. Saturnin les Avignon (Le Tissus Gregoire), lunch in Avignon, and on to Pont du Gard for the afternoon.
Drove up the wine route to Vaison la Romaine for a short walk around their market (Tuesday) and stops in Seguret (a precious charming perched village) and Gigondas for a wine tasting.
We did the Wednesday market in St. Remy.
Our last full day we intended to stop at the market in Aix and then drive on to Cassis for the remainder of the day. However, somehow missed the sign for Aix and ended up in Marseilles and then over to Cassis. Took the boat trip into the calanques which was a highlight of our trip.
I was sad to have missed Aix but will do on the next trip!
Lourmarin and Ansouis were towns that we wanted to visit but time just did not permit. They're on the list for the next trip.
There was a wonderful terrace at our guesthouse (www.lelavandinprovence.com) so a couple of the nights we dined alfresco on the wonderful things we purchased at markets. So fun!!
We had absolutely the best pizza any of us had ever eaten at L'Industrie in L'Isle sur la Sorgue on the night we arrived. We all wanted to get back there and have it again, but time did not permit that also. The pizza we had was the Savoyarde (I think!) with several different wonderful creamy tasty cheeses.
La Maison Guin was a fun dining experience. We ate outdoors on the porch of the restaurant and their menu was posted on a blackboard. The food was wonderful.
The dinner at Dame L'Oie in Pernes les Fontaines was spectacular. I had the rabbit with lavender which was so good -- I'm not normally a rabbit person. Foie gras like silk!
We dined one night at Lou Soloy on the basin in L'Isle sur La Sorgue and all wished we had gone to L'Industrie instead. The location is fabulous, but the food was probably the worst we had in our 16 days in Provence/Paris.
I have not been to the Loire nor the Dordogne (yet!!) so can't help you there.
I hope you have the most wonderful time, both planning and then going!
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Post by luvparee on Jun 26, 2007 11:11:35 GMT -5
Sorry! I just saw that I previously posted pretty much this same information on the "Provence" site! Sorry for the duplication!
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Post by Becky (Berkeleytravelers) on Jun 26, 2007 11:57:04 GMT -5
Metro -- thanks for your tip about Les Eyzies! That's a favorite destination when taking people to the Dordogne for the first time, and I will remember this as a possible lunch spot. Did you need a reservation, or was a walk-up okay?
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metromole
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Post by metromole on Jun 26, 2007 15:33:33 GMT -5
Becky, In our case, our hosts made a reservation because there were 6 of us but the place is as informal as you can get in France. We arrived at 12:15 to an empty resto but it was packed by 1PM.
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aude
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Post by aude on Jun 27, 2007 9:08:51 GMT -5
Iank9, Your Beth and Molly are beautiful and even in the photographs I can see how well-behaved they are. Ohhh, if only my poor sloppy unruly undisciplined ten year old basset hound had known you early in her life!! I can only dream of the dog she might have been. And I won't take to heart your reference to "problem" owners - that would be me! I won't even go into my experiences with poor Hippo at obedience class. Let's just say we didn't win any outstanding student awards! Your photos are beautiful, including your family and you! Holger, when you are in St. Remy be sure to pop into Joel Durand Chocolatier at 3, boulevard Victor Hugo (one of the main roads). We always go there for cocoa mix, as well as chocolates to bring home as gifts. They make wonderful chocolates in their little shop using all kinds of flavors, including the flavors you'd expect plus some exotic ones like lavendar, rosemary, etc. The people there are charming and sweet and will even give you free samples. Each flavor is assigned a letter of the alphabet, and you look at their chart and choose the flavors you want, and they put them in a pretty box for you. Then they put a chart in the box, so you can see which flavor you're eating. These have been a big hit when we've given them to friends. Just remember not to leave the chocolates in the rental car when it gets hot. Then you'll have to open the boxes to make sure they're not melted, then you won't be able to use them as gifts, and you might just have to eat them all yourself like we did last time! Here's a link about the shop: www.cuisineprovencale.com/art_chocolate.htmlHolger, I am also very jealous of your trip to Lascaux and can't wait to hear about it. One of my goals for my next trip is to visit Font-de-Gaume. Your trip sounds fabulous!! |
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aude
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Post by aude on Jun 27, 2007 9:15:49 GMT -5
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hahahha