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Post by geordy on Jul 13, 2008 8:31:35 GMT -5
Denise..you are on your happy way to Paris by now so you won't see this but...the Arenes de Lutece is not that well hidden...a couple of entrances, one on Rue Monge but as I recall just a doorway to a passage and a small sign which can be missed if you are coming from the "wrong" direction." The first time I looked for it I had some difficulty, but now, like with so many places in Paris, I seem to be falling into it all the time!!!! Anyone else experience that??? One trip you search and search for some place, and then, from then on seem to be strolling by it all the time! One Sunday morning we were having breakfast by St. Medard and a troupe of players put on a little show and handed out flyers for a performance in the Arenes that afternoon. I had already planned on it...it was sponsored by the 5th's Hotel de Ville. Quite fun!
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Post by suzanne on Jul 13, 2008 14:37:12 GMT -5
We stayed ina apartment on Censier Daubenton. It was right across the street from the church. The building had a charming blue door. I have a picture of the door on my desk.
We had some problems with lost luggage on this trip so we truely loved having Rue Mouffatard at our doorstep.
I was delighted to come out Sunday morning to the singing and dancing. On Saturday we saw a lovely wedding procession entering the church.
I would happily stay in this location again and again. We were lesss than happy about the bath tub in the apartment so I will have to find another apartment but evrything else about that area is great. IMO
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Post by Roniece on Jul 14, 2008 5:28:03 GMT -5
wonderful report this one as it's near where I will be staying for the month of September! Lucky me, I am going to print this out and savor the information... I'm very very lucky to have such beautiful friends who like to share on here merci!! RDB
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Post by Happygoin on Jul 14, 2008 6:48:56 GMT -5
The thing I like about Petite Marguery is that, although it's in the 5th, it's just far enough from the tourist-crazed restaurants nearer the river that it never seems to get really crowded. The waiters are the old-fashioned, dignified sort of Parisian waiter that are a perfect accompaniment to a wonderful French meal. I had a Breton lobster there one night that I'll never forget. (And this from a New Englander who has access to great lobster all the time )
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Post by chicchantal on Jul 14, 2008 12:50:15 GMT -5
oo, I've never had lobster! had they taken the crusts off cos I'm not sure I would know what to do with them?!
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Post by GitteK on Jul 14, 2008 12:58:54 GMT -5
chicchantal, I had lobster in Brasserie Mollard this April and it came with a nutcracker-looking thingy to crack open the claws and a long thin fork/plyer to dig out the meat. Totally messy affair, not much real food in it, mostly shells and legs and bones and what have you. And it costs you a fortune. Not worth the bother, IMHO.
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Post by Happygoin on Jul 14, 2008 13:25:40 GMT -5
Au contraire, Mme Gitte!! The lobster at PM was divine! Yes, you do have to crack it open, but they make it quite simple by making small cuts to begin the job for you. And, of course, the required lobster bib was ceremoniously tied around my neck by the nice waiter. There was quite a lot of meat and the most decadent butter sauce to pour on or dunk in. Delish!
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Post by Laidback on Jul 14, 2008 14:55:45 GMT -5
The thing I like about Petite Marguery is that, although it's in the 5th, it's just far enough from the tourist-crazed restaurants nearer the river that it never seems to get really crowded. The waiters are the old-fashioned, dignified sort of Parisian waiter that are a perfect accompaniment to a wonderful French meal. I had a Breton lobster there one night that I'll never forget. (And this from a New Englander who has access to great lobster all the time ) Happy, I endorse your sentiments concerning Au Petit Marguery, but even though it is just across the street from the 5th arrondissement it is actually in the 13th, and anyone can read about it by clicking on the link I noted in the 1st post of this thread. I don't mean to " chercher les petits betes" but only to help in avoiding any confusuion
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Post by Jody on Jul 14, 2008 16:12:02 GMT -5
We need to get Gitte to a real New England clam bake with big old Maine lobster. Messy yes but worth every single splash and splatter.!
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Post by framboiseetrose on Jul 14, 2008 16:47:00 GMT -5
Those New England lobster dinners are so worth it. I remember all the lobster dinners I take my son to when he was in school in Cambridge and my would be artist daughter had a great studio loft in Boston - how many of those baby lobsters we have eaten and on the plane going home, a six pack of live baby lobsters in a box that the stewardesses were pining for. Days to dream about. But back to Paris, I am re-reading LB's post and saw a picture of Les Papilles. I remember having lunch there with Mr. Framboise one day and recall that wonderful meal we had that day. They serve a 4-course pre-fixe for 32 euros and you can choose your wine from their shelves - retail price plus a little commision (or corkage fee). Here's the menu we had that day: - Velouté de carrottes aux cumin avec croustillant de carrotte, lardons et crème garnis de persil frite (Carrot soup with cumin and julienne of raw carrots, lardons and cream garnished with fried parsley) - Supreme de vollaile fermier grille avec tomate confit, pois gourmand aux rigatoni et crème aux basillic, garni de thym (Roasted breast of chicken with tomato confit, sugar peas with rigatoni and cream with basil, garnished with thyme) - Petite salade de chevre et toast aux tapenade (Small salad of goat chesse served with toast and olive spread) - Dessert de crème aux fruit de la passion garni de gellee de fruit de la passion (Dessert of cream of passion fruit, garnished with passion fruit jelly) - Un café avec un petit bol d’amandes grillé enrobé aux chocolat noir (Coffee served with a little bowl of grilled almonds covered with dark chocolate) - Une bouteille de Saint Joseph blanc (A bottle of Saint Joseph White Wine from the Cote du Rhone) Unfortunately, I was too shy to take pictures. I managed to take a picture of the carrot soup: I really like the quartier. Thanks again, LB.
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Post by Happygoin on Jul 15, 2008 6:17:36 GMT -5
Laidback, your clarification about the location of Petit Marguery was a surprise to me. I've been there several times and always thought I was in the 5th . (Live and learn) Demarais, I second the motion about getting Gitte a nice Maine lobster. Nothing quite like it, is there?
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Post by sistereurope on Jul 15, 2008 7:59:37 GMT -5
Here's my picture of the Sunday "bal musette"
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Post by Happygoin on Jul 15, 2008 8:43:04 GMT -5
I don't know why I think this (sistereurope, maybe you remember) but it seems to me that the man dancing in the picture is married to the lady who hands out the sheet music and leads the singing. She isn't in the picture.
I remember the lady dancing in this picture. She had on the MOST chic pair of green leather booties. I swear they could only look good on a French woman!
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Post by sistereurope on Jul 15, 2008 8:46:41 GMT -5
I don't remember happy! I thought that the couple in the picture was part of "the act"...but I don't know. I do remember that we all enjoyed that morning very much. It was one of those "only in Paris" experiences that stay with you forever.
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Post by framboiseetrose on Jul 16, 2008 11:34:01 GMT -5
Happy,
Laidback is quite right about Au Petit Marguery being in the 13th. The thing to remember is the even number side of the bd. du Pont Royal is in the 5th and the odd number side is in the 13th. It works the same on bd. du Montparnasse - the even numbers are in the 6th and the odd numbers are in the 14th.
It is difficult sometimes to remember all those boundary streets but it does not really matter except when we try to look something up in one arrondisement only to find that it is in another......... One of the joys of travelling, there is always something new to learn.
Lilia
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Post by Happygoin on Jul 16, 2008 13:55:40 GMT -5
I may have given the wrong impression in my reply to Laidback. I believed him! I was just surprised to learn I'd been in the 13th all the times I've been to Petit Marguery. But, you're right, framboise...it's one of the most fun things about traveling...learning new things.
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Post by chicchantal on Jul 18, 2008 14:42:47 GMT -5
Wow, they are beautiful. I nearly did a course in tapestry weaving a few years ago but I thought I wouldn't have the patience. I've seen this sort of thing for sale in London and they are expensive but not surprising. Do you remember how much they cost? The small ones I mean? Starting price?
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Post by GitteK on Jul 18, 2008 15:01:42 GMT -5
chicchantal, ROFLMPPO.......... those gobelins are at least about 12-15 m2 big and the starting price will be around 1 million good American dollars, I think (not that I asked........). The craftsmen-/women are working on about a maximum of 8-10 gobelins/tapestries at a time, and a similar number of carpets (Savonnerie).
BUT all hope is not out. The technique is employed in other places also. I saw tapestry pillowcases and wall-decorations in the souvenir shops at Versailles, Louvre, Musée Cluny, La Congiercerie and the cathedrals of both Reims and Chartres, which looked perfectly original (meaning that they were in fact woven by the correct method. But I can't guarantee you that, only they looked that way.)
La Manufacture des Gobelins do not make works for retail, only by order - BIG order !! You know: like UN headquarters, a French Embassy somewhere, or a ministry in XXX-country.
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Post by chicchantal on Jul 20, 2008 11:34:18 GMT -5
I'm really glad I asked you. Imagine how mortified I would have been if I'd asked THEM?! Hide my eyes!
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Post by GitteK on Aug 1, 2008 6:48:10 GMT -5
"Oh, I get by with a little help from your friends......" I have the cleverest, computersavviest colleague, who did some black magic vodoo and resized my video from Sunday 20 April 2008. So here it is .............. ta-daaaa ........... world premiere on OPF ! And there is music too - if you turn up your loudspeakers ! Mouffetard Bal Musette OBS! It takes some seconds before it starts (?), so be patient ! Or else just click on it a few times. I am not sure what is the correct way. I clicked on the scale underneath the picture. Hmmm ?
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