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Post by geordy on Sept 21, 2013 10:00:43 GMT -5
Flight on AF fine....hadn't changed flts @ CDG since 9/11...."Correspandance" a bit more involved! Fine to Marseiles..then..was thrilled there is a train station @ Marseiles airport since I'd been there, 12 years ago..but not quite as advertised! If the gare was actually at the airport I would have made 9:34 train to Arles ..but.,no,long line for ticket to Arles..includes free Navette ticket..gare is "ten minutes frm airport...bad directions and signage..usual stop area is under construction so moved..had to figure this out using maps..then waiting at new stop..finally told by sme English speaking driver that Navattes only leave ten minutes before a scheduled train at Gare..my next train t Arles is next .but not for over an hour! Go in terminal behind new Navette stp, W/C and buy biere and water at Brioche Doree and sit. Enjoying scenery ahead, wooded mountains.feeling very spacey..maybe dozed less than an hour on plane..when I realize I'm sitting btw a Burger King and Starbucks...in the south of France! Did I just go in a circle? Finaly get n Navette..realize why trains only leave before a train..middle of nowhere nothing there but 2 tracks..one in each direction..and bad directions they are but one said Marseiles and I knew wasn't going that way so... Never checked ticket..arrive at Arles gare..Tourist Office girl says I can walk by river for most direct route to hotel,,yeah scenic but beat the Hell ut of my new B;day gift to moi wheelie)marine bleu Travel pro 21 in) Hotel D'Aratan is grand! o ld histric bldg, with nicely set up pool, great room! S/O there so flowers, wine, etc. After a spell go out to explore..right in the thick of things First meal in France dej @ 2 Suds.right by old hpital coourtyard Vincent painted..and spent some time there..perhaps after ear incident? I have one of the Tortas of day..like a thick quiche, duck, crackiins, potat and other veggies..very good.avec a plentiful and nice salade and of course cote de rose! Then got quite busy for a first afternoon.Got coombo tkt for Ancient Roman Theatre and Arena(Rooooman amphitheatre) Climbed all over both making ample use of handrails and S/O as I was wobbly from lack of sleep and jet lag! Very cool..not the weather..that was sunny and HOt as Hell! Then little tourist train was right by arena so took 30 min get acclimated tour(not for me! Don't think I recalled a direction!  Picked up a couple of bottles more of rose and headed back to lovely Hotel we had a little balcony overlooking pool area..nice! Wandered for diner..nothing in Pl de Forum...a block from hotel..called..including famous Vincent VG Starry nite cafe..and very crowded and noisy..so headed to Bvd Lice in newer section and stopped at WauxHall, had pave de beouf with foie gras/pot/salad(k not exacty provencal but the beef and foie gras just sounded perfect.and it was!), Merlot Isle St.Provence. Since we had wine and bread left opted for cheese plate for dessert..scrumptious! A roll up the streets kind of little town..many cafes don't open until near dej and close at 10!.Except for Pl de Forum but even they open later as we found out next AM! "Sidewalks" are abut a foot and a half and if a car passes have t make sure you don't get clipped by mirror! Back to hotel after a very busy but wonderful first day! |
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Post by PariS on Sept 21, 2013 12:08:14 GMT -5
First day sounds lovely! Not sure I would want to eat on a street named Blvd. Lice tho! lol
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Post by Jody on Sept 21, 2013 14:26:36 GMT -5
Bet I know how you spent the "spell"!!!!!
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Post by janetnj on Sept 21, 2013 14:48:58 GMT -5
Nice report. Arles sounds spell-binding!  |
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Post by geordy on Sept 21, 2013 15:17:07 GMT -5
First day sounds lovely! Not sure I would want to eat on a street named Blvd. Lice tho! lol Actually des Lices!  |
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Post by Belladonna on Sept 21, 2013 15:20:12 GMT -5
Wonderful to hear from you Geordy and am looking forward to reading more...I won't say a word about the spell   |
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Post by Belladonna on Sept 21, 2013 15:21:30 GMT -5
Wonderful to hear from you Geordy and am looking forward to reading more...I won't say a word about the spell |
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Post by Shoesy on Sept 21, 2013 15:21:53 GMT -5
Just looked up your hotel, and it looks charming. Sounds like a great first day !
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Post by mez on Sept 21, 2013 21:51:10 GMT -5
A great start, Geordy. Looking forward to reading more.
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Post by geordy on Sept 22, 2013 9:33:53 GMT -5
Get up and out to forage for PD. Sleepy town, most of the Paces in Pl de Forum just setting up..after 10, so we wind up at Lices again.place called Wilson.sit on "porch". shore town/resort feel..have full PD, cafe creme, j, croissant, tartine. Locals going about their business which of course includes stopping for petite cafe or verre de vin! Walk thru Jardin d'ete and perimeter of old town..then Musee Reattu Donation Picasso..weird stuff.one exh glass bowls with castings of artist's wife's foot.but W/C break! Stop for pre dej rose and sit in sun.getting tan here! then to Pl Voltaire and Brasserie de Arena. There was an article in Dining sec of NYTimes a couple of weeks before about bull meat..taureau..in Alres.had ot try! Had kind of a stew.article said meat is very lean so best long cooked(though many places in town had steaks)Served with rice from area as well and carrots..meat very rosy even after "stewed" Tasty Pace very charming tree shaded and a few other cafes. Truck goes by promoting Feria for weekend..when we were originally planning.panned on Nimes first then Arles..but all Ares hotels booked for weekend because of Feria(bull fights in Roman arena!) Not sorry we missed..they don't killl bull here hang rosette btw horns and idea is to retrieve w/o getting gored.bulls develope rep..they'd better.if not  they wind up on plate of Manhattan foodie! :oBut town was crowded enough and this trip was about exploring town...plus direct TGV from Nimes to paris now! Service fell off so no dessert. Walked thru cloister St. Trophime.more climbing! I said I really like being in cloisters, said maybe in former life....S/O said only if I was sent as punishment!  so instead of dessert had entree at Glacier place on Pl de Forum...shared Bruchetta Mistral reallly a rectangular pizza, the works...plus brandade! Very creamy brandade but I didn't eat my share after bull stew! Another stop on Place for Rose @ Cafe de Nuit (famous Vincent cafe) Very quiet in town except for passing tour groups As very HOT enjoy wine and sitting..cafe next store setting up outside standing bar tables and equipment for pre Feria festivities! Stopped at bakery for area specialty Navette cookie out of natural..only Lavender..smelling it doesn't agree with me not sure what ingesting it would do..but get one.couple of bites each and save for future date. Also got a figue compote for foie gras to take home. Had seen spot on Pl de Forum, Taverne de Forum, had brandade and salad so headed there for diner. Tables under vines and lights in centre of Place.servers a bit rough, drinking wine at service area! They seem to add creme fraiche to brandade different consistency than what I'm used to but quite good. Though could barely eat..food overload and jet lag kicking in..Italien waitress concerned...Belle evening though and music and light show at the cafe that was setting up earlier..wonder about the folks in apts above?! Some big SUVs navigating tiny streets..amusing! Wait staff having to ferry food across street to Place.. Wait staff cleared off pates in garbage and then took back to restaurant aocrss way.my nearly full one the waitress "tidied up" a bit then took back t restURant..was gone awhile! After finishing Rose again..back to hotel to enjoy last nite view! Starry, starry nite.. |
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Post by Shoesy on Sept 22, 2013 10:18:55 GMT -5
Aha! I should have known that your trip report would include some brandade! |
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Post by holger on Sept 22, 2013 11:48:41 GMT -5
All sounds wonderful. Given the heat and all your exertions, did you get to use the pool?
Looking forward to more.
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Post by geordy on Sept 22, 2013 17:19:18 GMT -5
I did another report that got gone! Do not like this new format!
PD at hotel lovely in courtyard.buffet order hot drink form young lady..but 15 E w]o hot food other than egg..you can boil, or toast a bit much .
Quick walk to train...then quick wak in NIMES.
Hotel as lovely but different..modern Nice big, room with little balcony..full bath.
British couple own..nice welcme...go out to explore..bigger and more modern than Arles..old stuff more spread out.no "olde area"
Wanr Pain Bagnat for lunch..not finding.finaly in Pl Horloge a place with prinlamier avec thon..same idea..quite good with Rose of course!
Go to Maison Carre.old Roman Square bldg..columns..buy combo tickets they are for there, Arena, and Tour .. there you go in and watch cheesy 3D movie abut Nimes.do not buy combo tkt! Unless you are prepared to climb a gazilion steps,,,we did that next day..otherwise just get tkt at arena1. We went to arena after.danger signs all over...encuraging but having done by baance exercises I was ready! Very impressive''the arena and I!!!!
Asked for diner suggestion at hotel. Suggestion L'Esclafidous at Place of same name. Owner S.African woman
Short though convoluted walk) thru a bit of less privileged area) but very nice when there. Several restaurants in Place. Balmy evening.small troupe with singer entertaining...had rose and starter of merlu de cap avec beets, veggies, kind of a napoleon, then barracuda with rice of the region, and veggies tomat coulis..quite good. Dessert poached pear with red wine, chocolat sauce ..glace in a crispy shell..lovely!
Just a superb evening! And a lovely chat with owner..a bit homesick..French are a bit too stressed as opposed t S.Aficans!
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Post by janetnj on Sept 22, 2013 17:49:06 GMT -5
For a second I thought you meant that you were homesick.
That dessert sounds wonderful.
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Post by geordy on Sept 23, 2013 7:30:44 GMT -5
For a second I thought you meant that you were homesick. That dessert sounds wonderful! No ,I was NOT homesick..that was South African lady....had spent 8 yrs in London before France, hubby is the cook and I think French..did not met him! No did not use pool...but I think the hotel would be great for folks touring reagion as a hub..they have own parking facilities and the pool would be nice after a day trip! We just used tub!!! And gazed at pool!\ Sorry I seem illiterate in my posts from home ..laptop is really on last legs 9, O and L key plus period..acting up! |
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Post by geordy on Sept 24, 2013 10:53:02 GMT -5
Up Sat morn, walk to Pl de Marche for PD at a Pasticierre...cafe cream and pain au raisen. Watch locals go about Sat shopping. Walk to another Pl near hotel to see "famous" Starke sculpture of crocodile ..abstract. Can see tail but I think head and chain to palm(city seal of Nimes is Cooc chained to palm tree , symbolizing Rome's victory over Egypt(Nimes part of empire at time))is missing..rest of Place looks a bit vadalized...
Then off for morning (well a bit left) aerobics at Jardin des Fountaines....large belle park, beautifully landscaped many levels, ramps, steps..lovely pond with pair of white and black swans(humming) elaborate trek up to top and Tour Magne(included in combo tkt!) Once in Tour..climb many, many winding steps, narrow some broken, spiral stone staircase getting narrower and narrower and just as claustrophobia really setting in sunlight! And a platform to enjoy view which could hold about 6 folks ...luckily not crowded!!!!
Back down(didn't encounter anyone on way up but folks coming up as we are going down and lights shining in face at dangerous times!) and out to recuperate! Also very hot!
Walk thru Les Halles, impressive, and then to Petite Moca on Place de Herbes for dej. Next to Cathedral, music troupe playing, "MY WAY" among other things. Had Tartine de Pecheur, brandade, smoked salmon, salad and , of course rose! Cafe Gourmand for dessert, macaron, choc mousse, and vanilla glace with chantilly!
Check out Cathedral and Musee of Old Nimes. Sp exhibition Reines of Arles...apparently a contest held yearly..featuring photos and their gowns and other get ups...plus one on demin...James Dean, Marilyn and history of denim in NIMES and jeans!
Do our own walking tour from brochure..stop at tourist shop near arena and get brandade spread to take home.
WHile resting at hotel...huge storm ...thunder lightening, pouring...scheduled to go to cure places..Le Vintage with lovely garden in front and abstract Dolphin sculpture but as rain continues cancel and instead of wandering across town, head across street to cute spot Petite Palette which we can see from window is not full! One older lady serving, hubby in kitchen. Very little English. Had a veggie terrine and salad..so healthy!..then roulade of volaille avec tampenade(hadn't had yet!) more veggies. Then the best ever molten caramel cake..oh la la..when that caramel started oozing out..caught some with an apple slice ..heaven! Rose again of course.
Next day PD at hotel 8 E fromage,local bread, croissants,yogurt, oj cafe. Nice chat again with Brit owner...then short walk to Gare for TGV to PARIS! TGV W/C's painted to look like real bathroom..on walls painted stacks of towels, cup holding toothbrush, vase with flower, candles..clever!
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Post by Shoesy on Sept 24, 2013 23:07:09 GMT -5
Good for you for having all those healthy (and delish!) veggies before devouring that yummy caramel dessert! I'm certain that veggy calories serve to cancel out those acquired at the end of a meal. Those exhibits at the museum must have been interesting . I had heard that the origin of the word "denim" came from Nimes. (de Nimes) |
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Post by PariS on Sept 25, 2013 6:23:45 GMT -5
Yay, Paris is coming up next! |
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Post by Belladonna on Sept 25, 2013 9:39:27 GMT -5
As usual enjoying your report so much Geordy. Looking forward to reading about your stay in Paris
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Post by saintgermain on Nov 2, 2013 8:42:10 GMT -5
Geordy, loved your first day report! I was reading it out loud to my husband, and we felt like we were going along with you. The balcony overlooking the pool sounds like a fine spot to have some of that rose :-)
Sandy
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they wind up on plate of Manhattan foodie! :oBut town was crowded enough and this trip was about exploring town...plus direct TGV from Nimes to paris now!
Let the riot begin! LOL - 
hahahha