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Post by Becky (Berkeleytravelers) on Jun 10, 2007 21:49:20 GMT -5
In late May and early June we spent a week in the Aquitaine (west side of the Dordogne, plus the Charente), so here's a quick report (part 1). First, although we had some brief periods of sun, it rained every day and we also got thunderstorms and lots of wind -- not what I had in mind when packing sandals, tank tops, etc.! And, although last year this time we were having drinks outdoors in the evening, it was cold a lot of the time. But, it was France, and a beautiful rural area. Here's the house we rented, and the view from the house: The house was in the hamlet of Montignac le Coq (in the Poitou-Charente dept., not to be confused with the Montignac near Lascaux in the Dordogne): This is the covered well that would have served this hamlet in earlier centuries (similar ones are all over in small villages):
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Post by Becky (Berkeleytravelers) on Jun 10, 2007 22:02:12 GMT -5
We spent one day making a loop from the "Drive Around - Dordogne and Western France" guidebook. It took several hours, and was on small back roads, through an area that has astonishing numbers of very old (i.e. 11th to 15th century) chateaux that aren't even on maps (because there are so many). Most are open to the public at least some of the year, and we stopped and saw lots that we just noticed from the road although not in guidebooks, etc. For instance, although it was not open (this was a Sunday morning, it was drizzling, and "the season" doesn't seem to start until June), we walked around the outside of the largely derelict Mareuil chateau (signs said it goes back to the 11th century), and I would like to go back when it's open for tours: We also wandered off the beaten path, following signs, to see Beauvais chateau (also open to the public, although not on Sunday mornings in May!): We made our way to Villars (it also has a famous cave, the Grotte de Villars, although we did not stop there), to see Puyguilhem chateau. Unfortunately, we arrived just after the staff went to lunch (we could hear convivial sounds from the house where everyone was apparently sharing lunch). No one seemed to mind, so we peeked inside and, again, decided we must go back when it's officially open. We went on to Brantome, which is a beautiful town on a river, with a huge old abbey. We enjoyed it, but it was raining so hard that pictures were impossible! And it was still raining hard in Riberac, so we didn't take pictures there either . . . . sorry . . . .
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Post by Shoesy on Jun 10, 2007 22:06:00 GMT -5
This is fantastic, Becky. I'm going to exhalt you for making me smile this morning.
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Post by Becky (Berkeleytravelers) on Jun 10, 2007 22:24:34 GMT -5
And here's the rest of our trip (to the extent we took pictures): Just a short distance from the village where we stayed we passed the entrance to an estate, with this wonderful gate post: We went to Cognac for a day, and along the way saw more of the spectacular old buildings that seem to be just everywhere (don't know what this is, just liked the look): In Cognac, we went by Hennessy (maybe next trip, it looks spectacular but also was ringed with tour buses). We stopped at Martel (the oldest cognac house): Cognac is about 30 minutes from Angouleme (which is about 30 minutes from where we stayed). Angouleme is a small city, very old (11th century or older), so we spent an afternoon walking around it. Angouleme Hotel de Ville: Don't know what this is but it's old and interesting! Detail from exterior of cathedral: Finally, we spent an afternoon at Hautefort, which is a really spectacular fortified chateau east of Perigueux: This is the village of Hautefort from the chateau: This is the former hospice of Hautefort (check out those clouds!): And last but not least, here is where we stayed our last two nights (Chateau le Mas de Montet, in Petit Bersac in the Dordogne): And, that's what I did on my summer vacation!
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Post by Shoesy on Jun 10, 2007 22:27:50 GMT -5
Wow - some more beautiful pictures !
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Post by annettecinca on Jun 10, 2007 22:33:46 GMT -5
Gorgeous, Becky! Sounds like you had a wonderful trip!
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Post by GitteK on Jun 10, 2007 23:24:02 GMT -5
Becky - even though the weather wasn't so good, it sounds as if you had a great trip. And your photos are very fine. Some day I shall take a trip around in France - outside Paris - maybe, some day when Paris starts to bore me.....
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Post by Shoesy on Jun 10, 2007 23:37:52 GMT -5
Gitte - "Paris", "bore" you ?
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Post by Becky (Berkeleytravelers) on Jun 11, 2007 0:26:20 GMT -5
Gitte -- would it interest you in venturing beyond Paris, if I mentioned that the place we stayed the last two nights (Chateau le Mas de Montet) was a favorite of the recent President, who used to spend weekends there with his mistress? Just remember, Parisians are very sentimental about their country houses/attachments so there's good precedent for visiting areas outside of Paris.
Seriously, much as I love Paris (and I do, I do!) I think that the "real" France is in the countryside and the towns and villages. Traveling to these remote chateaux we saw on this trip gives me some sense of what it must have been like for their owners to travel to the Court, and how awestruck they must have been (even though, comparatively speaking, they lived in luxury given how pathetic the lot of the French peasants was).
Plus, in the 11th century (before they were really "French") they all would have been under the control of (and the chateaux in many cases were built by contemporaries of) Eleanor of Aquitaine, and I'm in the middle of a fascinating biography of her. Well, I've always been interested in history, as you can tell, and the entire Dordogne/Charente area just makes it come alive for me.
BTW, have any of you seen the French movie "Ridicule"? If not, it's worth a look (for many reasons, including the depiction of court life which seems to generally be regarded as accurate but also for the opening scenes, which to someone from the US, were pretty "unusual"!). The main character is a naive young landowner from rural France (minor aristocracy) who goes to Court in the hope of getting help with a project to drain his land and help his peasants lead more healthful lives.
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Post by sistereurope on Jun 11, 2007 7:38:36 GMT -5
Becky...those pictures are wonderful!! But now you've gone and made me REALLY want to visit other parts of France. Maybe our June 2008 trip can include a visit to the countryside, eh gang? WooHoo, the Paris lovin' women take on France!
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Post by Ray(aka) tripnebraska on Jun 11, 2007 9:42:21 GMT -5
Becky, The photos are inspiring. Do you find any difficulty driving in France, outside of Paris?
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Post by Becky (Berkeleytravelers) on Jun 11, 2007 9:45:02 GMT -5
Hi Ray -- driving in France is like driving here, except the secondary roads aren't banked so you have to be careful in rain or at higher speeds. The rules of the road are pretty much the same as here (and I would much rather drive outside of Paris than in it -- that's something I haven't even attempted and don't intend to!). For long distances, there are pay roads (not all that expensive) that are the equivalent of US interstates in terms of quality, etc., and you can cover substantial distances quickly. Give it a try!
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Post by luvparee on Jun 11, 2007 13:03:07 GMT -5
This board is becoming such a wonderful photo guidebook -- each subject is different and the photos are all breathtaking! Just loving the trip reports with pics!!! Keep it up, all you digital pros! One of these days I'll join you in the digital age (I always wait to make sure all these new "fads" make the cut).
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Post by andi on Jun 11, 2007 13:51:24 GMT -5
I only just noticed this thread.......Becky it is beautiful!!! Everyone thinks that the English countryside is nice but I think that the French is much nicer still. Don't you just love the pictures to go with the words.......the other place must be green with envy LOL ;D
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Post by Becky (Berkeleytravelers) on Jun 11, 2007 20:36:51 GMT -5
Andi, I loved Derbyshire (about the only part of the English countryside that I've seen, and it was gorgeous) but I have to say that I do think France probably is more beautiful. Plus, of course, the little villages all have cafes that serve French food (let's face it, England just can't compete on that score!). At some point, do give it a try (much less expensive than Paris, also, which means the vacation can be about twice as long, or you can go twice as often! ;D)
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Post by annettecinca on Jun 11, 2007 21:28:01 GMT -5
Just looked at your pics again and am sitting here dreaming about being in France <sigh> Do you have any pictures yet of the place you've bought in Aubeterre-sur-Dronne? Would love to see the "before" shots so we can appreciate the "afters" when you're done remodeling!
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Post by Becky (Berkeleytravelers) on Jun 11, 2007 22:13:14 GMT -5
Annette, you are so kind! But, you know the expression, "be careful what you ask for"? We have lots of pictures but I'm afraid that at this point, it's only interesting to us (kind of like "a face only a mother could love"). Really, it's a hundreds of years old (no one is sure just how many hundreds, but probably at least four or five) row house, with thick stone walls on all sides (shared walls to the left and right). But, perhaps I will post pictures of the village in a few days, since I'm quite taken with it and it has been the destination for several trips over the past 18 months. (There also are some pix on TA in a review of the village that I posted awhile back.) And -- thanks for asking!! As you can guess, this project is near and dear.
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Post by annettecinca on Jun 11, 2007 23:52:39 GMT -5
I totally understand, Becky. Sounds like a long process--a bit longer than it would be here in the States! My husband is an architect, so I have come to enjoy the modernization process and being able to look past the surface at the "bones" of a structure and imagine the possibilities. We are partial to the old stone walls too, and have toyed with the idea of redoing our patios and pool area with faux stone, à la Eze. That will be an amazing focal point for your home! I'm jealous... Maybe one of these days we'll be in your shoes. Trouble is, my husband absolutely wouldn't be able to stand not being there to oversee the work himself, so it's gonna be awhile before we can do that! Enjoy the process! Sounds like you have some great craftsmen lined up. Keep us posted on your progress!
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Post by iank9 on Jun 12, 2007 18:32:50 GMT -5
Hi Becky, Wonderful photographs! And yes we have been caught out several times with the French weather, which of course means it is not a uniquely British problem! I have posted further under "Beautiful Scenery", so as not to interrupt your thread Best wishes
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Post by sunshine817 on Jul 6, 2008 20:12:53 GMT -5
If you have ever seen the film "Ever After" with Drew Barrymore (an updated telling of Cinderella", much of the outdoor scenery takes place in the gardens of Hautefort.
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